Formulary
Print

November 2009 formulary:

Wrinkle Fading Under Makeup Moisturizer High SPF Sprayable Sunscreen Lotion Moisturizing Hand Sanitizer* New Generation Anti-Aging Moisturizer Sulfate-Free Conditioning Shampoo

Styling Aid and Fixative Hand Sanitizing Gel Flax Body Wash Hard Surface Cleaner with Anti-Scale Effect Moisturizing Combing Cream

Wrinkle Fading Under Makeup Moisturizer

Phase Phase A

Tego Care 165 (Evonik Industries)(Glyceryl stearate & PEG-100 stearate)

1.25

RITA Stearic (RITA) (Stearic acid)

1.30

Promulgen D (Lubrizol) (Cetearyl alcohol & ceteareth-20)

1.25

Myrj 59 (Uniqema) (PEG-100 stearate)

0.50

Pelemol DO (Phoenix Chemicals) (Decyl oleate)

3.00

Tegosoft CT (Evonik) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)

1.00

DC 200 Fluid 50cst (Dow Corning) (Dimethicone)

2.00

Organza (Centerchem)

10.00

Phase Phase B

Deionized water

48.05

Ultrez 10 (Lubrizol) (Carbomer)

0.25

Hispagel Oil LV (Cognis Iberia/Centerchem)

3.00

Aurasphere Suspension (Centerchem)

12.00

Aurasphere N (Centerchem)

12.00

Phase Phase C

Sodium hydroxide (10% solution)

0.70

Lipomoist 2013 CPE (Lipotec/Centerchem)

3.00

Diocide (Centerchem)

0.70

Procedure::
Heat phase A to 75°C. Add carbomer to phase B water and mix until uniform. Begin heating to 75°C. Add remaining phase B ingredients and mix until uniform. (Aurasphere may also thicken the water phase.) When both phases are at 75°C, add phase A to phase B under moderate mixing. Mix for 10 minutes. Homogenize briefly, then begin cooldown. At 50°C, add phase C. At 45°C, add phase D ingredients. Mix until uniform.

More info: :
Centerchem, Inc., (203) 822-9800 • www.centerchem.com

High SPF Sprayable Sunscreen Lotion

Phase Phase A

Parsol 1789 (DSM) (Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone; USAN))

3.00

Parsol 340 (DSM) (Octocrylene (Octocrilene; USAN))

2.70

Parsol EHS (DSM) (Ethylhexyl salicylate (Octisalate; USAN))

5.00

Parsol HMS (DSM) (Homosalate (Homosalate; USAN))

15.00

Parsol SLX (DSM) (Polysilicone-15)

0.99

Eusolex 4360 (Merck KGaA) (Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone; USAN)

5.00

Dub Dis (Stearinerie Dubois Fils) (Diisopropyl sebacate)

4.00

Jojoba Oil (Hänseler AG) (Simmondsia chinensis jojoba) seed oil)

4.00

dl-alpha-Tocopheryl acetate (DSM) (Tocopheryl acetate)

1.00

Cetiol SB-45 (Cognis) (Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter)

0.70

Pemulen TR-1 (Lubrizol) (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer)

0.30

Dow Corning 345 Fluid (Dow Corning) (Cyclopentasiloxane & cyclohexasiloxane)

3.00

Butylated hydroxytoluene (Merck KGaA) (BHT)

0.05

Phase Phase B

1,3-Butylenglykol (Merck KGaA) (Butylene glycol)

5.00

1,2-Propanediol (Propylene glycol)

5.00

Eastman AQ Polymer 55S (Eastman Chemical) (Polyester-5)

3.00

Edeta BD (BASF) (Disodium EDTA)

0.10

Water dem.

20.01

Parsol HS (DSM) (Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole; USAN))

4.00

Triethanolamine (T.E.A.) (Fluka Chemie) (Triethanolamine)

2.50

Procedure::
Heat phase A to 85°C and stir until homogeneous. Heat phase B to 85°C and add to phase A under agitation. When everything is homogenous add phase C pre-heated to 50°C. Be sure that the pH of Parsol HS solution is 7.0. If traces remain, add small quantities of the used neutralizing base until the particles are dissolved. Homogenize thoroughly and then with continued mixing cool down to ambient temperature. It is generally recommended to use vacuum while producing the emulsion.

PROPERTIES: pH:—7.56; Viscosity—1150 Brookfield, RV310 rpm); SPF in vivo—53.9; PA: +++; PFA—9.4 Critical Wavelength—376 nm. Notes: For U.S., AP; can be used globally but for EU only meets SPF 30 UVA balance

More info: :
DSM Nutritional Products, Tel: (973) 257-8501 • www.nutraaccess.com

Moisturizing Hand Sanitizer*

Phase Phase A

Hydresia SF2 (Botaneco) (Carthamus tinctorius (safflower) oleosomes/water)

12.50

Fragrance

0.30

Phase Phase B

Water

23.20

Phase Phase C

Ethyl alcohol (99.5)

62.00

Phase Phase D

Aristoflex AVC (Clariant) (Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer)

2.00

Procedure::
Mix phase A ingredients under propeller for 10 minutes at 400 rpm at RT. Slowly add phase B and mix until uniform. In increments add phase C and mix for several minutes. Add phase D and mix for 30 minutes or until uniform and smooth. Increase speed as the batch thickens.

Comments::
Use low sheer blade propeller. To avoid Ethanol evaporation system should be enclosed.

Properties::
PROPERTIES: Viscosity RVTC/2—40,000–45,000 cps; pH range—5.5-6.5. *Confirmed against S. Aureus and E. Coli.

More info::
Botaneco, Inc., Tel: 215-604-0634 • www. botaneco.ca

New Generation Anti-Aging Moisturizer

Phase Phase A

Tego Care 450 (Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate)

3.00

Tegin M Pellets (Glyceryl stearate)

2.50

Tego Alkanol 18 (Stearyl alcohol)

1.5

Tegosoft MM (Myristyl myristate)

1.00

Tegosoft DO (Decyl oleate)

8.00

Tegosoft OS (Ethylhexyl stearate)

9.00

Phytosphingosine SLC (Salicyloyl phytosphingosine)

0.10

Phase Phase B

Glycerin

3.00

Water

66.25

Phase Phase C

Tego Carbomer 134 (Carbomer)

0.20

Tegosoft P (Isopropyl palmitate)

0.80

Phase Phase D

Tego Cosmo PGA (Polyglutamic acid)

0.20

Water

3.80

Phase Phase E

Sodium hydroxide (10% in water)

0.65

Phase Phase Z

Preservative, parfum

q.s.

Procedure::
Disperse Tego Cosmo PGA in water (phase D). Heat phase A and phase B separately to approximately 80°C. Add phase A to phase B with stirring (Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be added without stirring.) Homogenize. Cool with gentle stirring to approximately 60°C and add phase C. Homogenize for a short time. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase D/E below 40°C.

More info: :
Evonik Goldschmidt, (49) 201-173-2854, www.evonik.com/personal-care, Email: personal-care@evonik.com

Sulfate-Free Conditioning Shampoo

Deionized water

341.9 grams

Plantaren 2000 (Cognis) (Decyl glucoside)

115.0 grams

Cetiol LDO (Cognis) (Dicaprylyl ether (and) lauryl alcohol)

2.5 grams

Lamesoft PO-65 (Cognis) (Coco-glucoside (and) glyceryl oleate)

12.5 grams

Sodium benzoate

2.5 grams

Natrosol Plus 330 CS (Ashland) (Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose)

10.6 grams

AquaCat PF618 (Ashland) (Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride)

15.0 grams

Citric acid 50% solution to adjust pH 5.0

q.s.

Total batch

500.0 grams

Procedure::
Add Natrosol Plus 330 CS (cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) to water under agitation. Raise pH to approximately 8.0-9.0. Mix for 45 minutes while maintaining the pH. Adjust the pH if necessary. Add Plantaren 2000, Cetiol LDO and Lamesoft PO-65 while mixing. Mix 10 minutes between each addition. Add sodium benzoate. Mix 10 minutes. Add citric acid to adjust pH to approximately 5.0. Mix for 15 minutes. Next, add AquaCat PF618 guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and mix for 10 minutes. Adjust pH to about 5.

Properties::
Viscosity Brookfield, LVT, 30rpm (cps)—4,700; pH—5.0; Lather Appearance—Rich, dense.

More info: :
Ashland Aqualon Functional Ingredients, Tel: (302) 995-3000 • www.aqualon.com

Styling Aid and Fixative

Phase Phase A

Deionized water

58.5

Glycerin USP (Fisher Scientific)

5.0

PVP/PA copolymer

10.0

Phase Phase B

Dow Corning RM 2501 Thickening Agent (Sodium polyacrylate (and) dimethicone (and) cyclopentasiloxane (and) trideceth-6 (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone)

4.0

Phase Phase C

Dow Corning HY-3050 Soy Wax (Hydrogenated soybean oil (and) C15-23 alkane)

3.0

Dow Corning HY-3051 Soy Wax Blend (Hydrogenated soybean oil (and) hydrogenated soybean polyglycerides (and) C15-23 alkane)

5.0

Crodacol C-17 (Cetyl alcohol) (Croda)

3.0

Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax (C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilses-quioxane)

2.0

Xiameter PMX-0225 Silicone Fluid (Dow Corning) (Dimethicone)

2.0

Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyl trimethicone)

2.0

Mango Butter (Mangifera indica)

3.0

Crodamol GTCC (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)

2.0

Phase Phase D

Glydant Plus (Lonza) (DMDM hydantoin)

0.5

Fragrance

q.s.

Comments::
Combine phase A ingredients and mix. Heat to 80°C. Add Phase B with sufficient agitation to obtain a homogenous mixture. Be aware that the mixture will quickly develop high viscosity. In a separate container, combine and heat phase C to 80°C with gentle mixing. Continue mixing until all the wax is melted and the mixture is uniform. Add phase C to phase AB while stirring, and continue to heat until mixture is uniform. Reduce mixer speed to 55 rpm, and continue stirring as the batch cools to room temperature. Cool to approximately 40°C with mixing. Add phase D and mix until homogeneous.

More info::
Dow Corning, Tel: (989) 496-6000 • www.dowcorning.com/personalcare
Email: lifesciences@dowcorning.com

Hand Sanitizing Gel

Deionized water

38.70

Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer or Carbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer (Lubrizol/Noveon) (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer)

0.25

Propylene glycol

0.50

SDA 3-C Ethanol 200 Proof (ADM) (Alcohol Denat.,)

60.00

SilSense Copolyol-1 Silicone (Lubrizol/Noveon) (PEG-33, PEG-8 dimethicone (and) PEG-14)

0.30

Triisopropanolamine (Dow Chemical)

0.25

Procedure: :
Disperse Carbopol Ultrez Polymer by sprinkling on the surface of deionized water. After polymer is wetted, mix slowly at low speed Slowly add the propylene glycol and alcohol with gentle mixing. Allow as much air to escape as possible before proceeding. Add the SilSense Copolyol-1 silicone with gentle mixing. Add the triisopropanolamine with gentle sweeping motion to minimize air entrapment. Mix until uniform Add dye or fragrance if desired.

Properties::

Appearance—Clear Gel; pH—7.3–7.6; Viscosity—(mPa·s) Brookfield RVT @ 20 rpm, 25°C, # 5 spindle—8,000–12,000 (Carbopol Ultrez 21) or 4,000–6,000 (Carbopol Ultrez 20); Clarity—Brinkmann PC 920 Colorimeter, 420 nm (%T)—90–95 Carbopol Ultrez 21) or 97–100 (Carbopol Ultrez 20); Stability—Passed 45°C, 3 months

More info: :
Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc. (Noveon Consumer Specialties)
(216) 447-5000, (800) 379-5389 • www.personalcare.noveon.com

Flax Body Wash

Phase Phase A

Deionized water

q.s.

Incromide LR (Stepan)

5.0

Standapol ES-2 (Henkel)

30.0

Natunola Flax Extract 230 (Natunola)

20.0

Germaben II (Sutton Lab)

1.0

Phase Phase B

Citric acid

q.s.

Deionized water

1.0

Sodium chloride

1.2

Deionized water

2.0

Phase Phase D

Fragrance, color

q.s.

Procedure::
At room temperature, mix the ingredients in Part A one at a time, mixing well between each addition. Dissolve phase B ingredients, add to phase A and mix well. Dissolve phase C ingredients, add to phase AB mixture and mix well. Add fragrance and color, if desired.

More info::
Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc. (Noveon Consumer Specialties)
(216) 447-5000, (800) 379-5389 • www.personalcare.noveon.com

Hard Surface Cleaner with Anti-Scale Effect

Citric acid

9.6

Water, demin.

82.8

Glucopon 215 UP (Cognis)

3.5

Dehydol O4 Deo (Cognis)

1.7

Acetic acid

2.4

Preservative

q.s.

Procedure::
Introduce water and dissolve citric acid. The remaining ingredients are mixed in given order at room temperature and homogenized. The pH value is adjusted by addition of sodium hydroxide if necessary. Appearance: clear, colorless liquid.

Properties::
pH value (as is)—2.0–2.5; Viscosity (Hoeppler, 20°C)—< 10

More info::
Cognis GmbH, Care Chemicals Division, Monheim, Germany, www.cognis.com

Moisturizing Combing Cream

Phase Phase A

Deionized water

76.40

Structure Zea starch (National Starch)(Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate)

2.00

DynamX polymer (28%) (National Starch) (Polyurethane-14 (and) AMP-acrylates copolymer)

1.00

1631 (70%) (Shanghai Goodway) (Cetrimonium chloride)

1.40

Phase Phase B

Cetearyl alcohol

2.20

Brij 58 (Uniqema) (Ceteth-20)

0.30

Phase Phase C

Dow Corning 2-1352 (Dow Corning) (Dimethicone (and) laureth-23 (and) C12-15 pareth-3)

1.00

Glydant Plus Liquid (Lonza) (DMDM Hydantoin (and) iodopropynyl butylcarbamate)

0.50

Deionized water

10.00

Hydrovance moisturizing agent (50%) (National Starch) (Hydroxyethyl urea)

5.00

Triethyl citrate (Leiming (China))

0.20

Procedure::
To prepare phase A, disperse the Structure Zea starch into the water. Add the remaining ingredients and heat to 80°C with good mixing. In a separate vessel, combine the components of phase B and heat to 80°C with mixing. To prepare phase C, premix the triethyl citrate into the Hydrovance moisturizing agent until dissolved. Combine the other components of phase C into the Hydrovance/TEC mixture. While maintaining temperature at 80°C add phase B to phase A and mix well for 10-15 minutes. Cool to 40-45°C with continued mixing and add phase C. Continue cooling to room temperature with mixing. Adjust pH as necessary.

Properties::
Viscosity—6,000-8,000 cps (Brookfield RVDV-II+, RV 6#, 20 rpm, 15°C); pH: 6.50–6.80.

More info::
AkzoNobel - National Starch PersonalCare, (888) 331-6212 • www.personalcarepolymers.com