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BASF researchers provide insight on selecting the right raw materials and creating dispersions, as well as offer some troubleshooting tips.
By: Anna Gripp, Juan Brito, Nicole Paraszczuk
June 1, 2020
Formulators’ interest in using zinc oxide in sunscreen formulations is on the rise in North America, driven by the current regulatory climate surrounding organic UV filters in the US. This driver, coupled with increasing consumer demand for information on the safety and purpose of the ingredients in the products they purchase, has given rise to a new market segment for safe formulations that don’t compromise efficacy. Zinc oxide is long recognized by consumers as a safe and effective ingredient, especially as a mineral UV filter. This confluence of factors makes zinc oxide the ideal UV filter for today’s sun care market. Even before the recent regulatory changes, our analysis indicated an increasing number of sunscreen launches with zinc oxide. Using Mintel data, we estimate that sunscreen launches in the US, using only zinc oxide as the UV filter, increased by about 20% from 2017 to 2018, while new sunscreen launches containing all chemical UV filters have been on the decline since 2014. Zinc oxide formulations are growing in popularity and zinc oxide works well in trendy, on-the-go formats such as sticks. Depending on the specific zinc oxide, it may support “free-from” and “clean” claims. If formulated properly, it is also effective in water-resistant formulations. Formulation Tips Zinc oxide is a broad-spectrum UV filter that protects the skin from UVB and UVA rays. Additionally, it has longer wavelength UVA coverage, which contributes to its popularity. It is tentatively categorized as a Category 1 UV filter (safe and effective) in FDA’s sunscreen monograph. To maximize zinc oxide’s performance, proper formulation techniques must be followed. Dispersions: A proper dispersion is essential for optimal performance of a sunscreen product. It provides better UV protection and improves stability, and reduced whitening improves cosmetic appeal. In order to obtain an adequate dispersion, suitable emollients are selected for creating the dispersion, and proper processing techniques are used. Optical microscopy is one technique that helps to evaluate if the dispersion is satisfactory or not. When reviewing under the microscope, one should see a uniform representation of the dispersion as shown in image B below. Image A is a representation of a poorly made dispersion, a blotchy and non-uniform formula, and suggests that the zinc oxide particles are agglomerating.
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