DermaQuest Skin Therapy

A three-tiered approach to skin care.

By Joanna Cosgrove
Online Editor

Based on the philosophy that balancing and pre-conditioning are essential for maintaining the integrity of the skin, DermaQuest Skin Therapy is a three-leveled skin care line with products formulated for the consumer, the esthetician and the physician, all under the same brand umbrella.

DermaQuest takes a multi-tier approach to skin care.

The line’s creator, Sam Dhatt, an award-winning cosmeceutical chemist, wanted a clear delineation between the levels of his products to distinguish which products were meant for whom. With this system in place, he said, consumers are prevented from buying and applying products like glycolic acid peels, which are best applied by aestheticians; and aestheticians are prevented from performing 30 percent TCA on clients— a procedure best performed by physicians. This structured approach is designed to impart “maximum success” by “building on the strength of the skin to better tolerate future, more aggressive results-oriented programs,” according to the company.


The division of the products boils down to acid levels. “The formulation ingredients change level-to-level by the increase in use of acids,” explained Allyson Rogers, director of education for DermaQuest Skin Therapy, which is based in Hayward, CA. “For example, home care product glycolic acid levels max out at 12 percent in the DermaQuest line and esthetic-level glycolic acid resurfacers go as high as 40 percent and physician glycolic peels are at 70 percent.”


The three-tiered DermaQuest Skin Therapy family consists of six product subcategories: Masters, Age Management, Acne Management, Therapeutic Care, Professional Care and Physician Level products.


The two Masters products feature sodium hyaluronate and ingredients that support and “reconstruct” collagen. The 16 Age Management products are formulated with high-performance ingredients such as peptides, Kinetin, antioxidants and alpha hydroxyl acids. Ten Acne Management products feature a spectrum of anti-bacterial agents, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and AHAs to eliminate the P. acnes bacteria and promote the exfoliation of problematic skin.   


The 27-product Theraputic Care range is defined as “a line of support products designed to enhance both professional and home care treatments.” The line encompasses treatments for rosacea and hyperpigmentaton and provides advanced hydration and sun protection products as well.


Eighteen Professional Care products for use “only under the supervision of a skin care professional” are primarily comprised of skin resurfacing preparation, but also include massage treatments and an acne mask.


And finally, the 11 Physician Level offerings consist mostly of powerful skin peel treatments and related preparations.  


“There are many results-driven ingredients in the DermaQuest line but some current highlights are definitely the use of peptides for anti-aging, idebenone for skin cell protection and the use of advanced delivery systems to enhance the performance of the ingredients,” commented Ms. Rogers.


DermaQuest Skin Therapy products are sold exclusively through estheticians and physician channels to ensure desired results are delivered to the client. “We understand that all different types of skin have different needs and the professional in the skincare market needs to know how to address this,” Ms. Rogers said. “Also, we can assume that if a customer comes into a medi-spa for treatments, it is very likely that an appropriate peel for their skin concern is going to be performed. If the peel is applied to the skin without pre-conditioning, there could be unpredictable side-effects such as redness, irritation and hyperpigmentation issues.”


She went on to explain that the notion of preparation and balance extends to more than just clients experiencing hyperpigmentation. “The skin needs to be in proper ‘balance’ before application of professional products. For example, darker skin tones need to be on a skin lightening product in their home care routine for a couple of weeks before a peel and immediately after for proper outcomes,” she said, pointing to DermaQuest’s two post-care products, Advanced B5 Serum and Collagen Activating Complex, which “assist in healing and collagen stimulation.”  

 
DermaQuest’s latest new product is DermaLash, a drug-free lash-enhancing product that is formulated to stimulate hair growth and strengthen hair to withstand breakage and hair loss as a result of allergies, pulling, rubbing, lash curling, cosmetics and heat. The product features copper, biotin and amino acids, as well as a variety of natural ingredients such as Tussilago Farfara (Clotsfoot) flower extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Cinchona Succirubra Bark Extract and milk protein extract.


The company also plans to introduce a cellulite body treatment in January.


DermaQuest products debuted in 1999 but the line was completely re-branded in January 2007 with a sleek new look, formulation upgrades and several ingredient enhancements.


“DermaQuest added DNA repair ingredients to all three sunscreens, Masters Products (Advanced B5 Serum and Collagen Activating Complex) and Revive Cream and Revive Body,” said Ms. Rogers. “Also, DermaQuest’s ZinClear SPF 30 was reformulated using nano zinc oxide, creating a light and smooth application of the product. Another enhancement is the use of delivery systems in many of the serums and creams to improve penetration and activity of the specialized ingredients in the formulation.”