Clean beauty is more than a buzzword—it’s a movement. So, it’s no surprise that more than 120 beauty industry executives attended a clean beauty seminar developed by the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists earlier this week.

NYSCC Chair Giorgio Dell’Acqua opened the meeting with a presentation on minimalism in formulation. He reviewed opportunities where chemists can create effective, high-quality formulas that are safe on the skin, including the microbiome. He noted that efficacy is a major driver, but it must be backed by good science and good clinical tests.

“Supplier data is not enough,” he told the audience.

While environmental impact may be the centerpiece of clean beauty, Dell’Acqua maintained that synthesis has a place in the movement. He reviewed common skin care ingredient categories and suggested that formulators should select one or two from each, rather than trying to jam dozens of actives into a single formula. For example, cosmetic chemists could select one antioxidant from a list that includes carotenoids, vitamin C or vitamin E. Similarly, a narrow list of anti-inflammatories could include willow, turmeric, arnica or aloe. Finally, replenishing ingredients may include ceramides, fatty acids, hyaluronic acid or collagen.

In theory it sounds good, but as one wag in the audience noted, “What happens when my competitor selects two ingredients from each category?”

The result, of course, is a marketing war of words.

But whatever ingredient(s) the chemist selects, it should check all the boxes of ingredient specification, safety in use and proven efficacy. According to Dell’Acqua, these attributes include:
• High quality;
• Stable in formulation;
• Bioavailable to the skin;
• Biodegradable;
• Non-toxic, good clearance;
• Safe on the microbiome;
• Scientifically-proven;
• Clinically-tested;
• Environmentally friendly; and
• Society friendly.

“We want to do more with less, whether that means ingredients or packaging,” noted Dell’Acqua.  “Simplification is not easy—especially when it comes to fragrance.”

Simplification isn’t necessarily cheap either. As one attendee noted, if a five-ingredient formula costs $650, it’s not a viable option for most consumers.

The Glow Recipe for Success

Providing viable options to the consumer is one reason for Glow Recipe’s success, explained Senior Director of Marketing Mallory Goldberg. The company was founded by in 2017 by Korean-Americans Sarah Lee and Christine Chang, who were inspired by the Korean beauty movement. Watermelon Glow Sleeping Mask was its first big hit. The mask contains hyaluronic acid, watermelon extract and alpha hydroxy acids. After a successful turn on Shark Tank, the company’s sales reached $100 million last year.

“Being clean is critical to our success,” explained Goldberg. “In a survey of our customers, clean formulas ranked as the No. 2 reason customers choose to shop with us (behind quality results).”

She added that “clean” was also the most commonly used brand descriptor. For Glow Recipe, clean means a short ingredient list, product safety and low environmental impact.

“Consumers expect honesty from their brands,” she said. “We work closely with our contract manufacturers and ingredient suppliers to create our clean formulas.”

A Big Opportunity for Indies & Multinationals

Goldberg cited Euromonitor data in noting the rise of clean skincare. By 2025, skincare is expected to become a $181 billion industry. In the years leading up to the pandemic, natural brands captured the largest share of the skincare category.

“Brands and retailers listened to consumers’ requests for more transparency and cleaner formulas,” noted Goldberg. “The expectation around clean has evolved beyond formula ingredients and packaging.”

She pointed out that, despite its popularity, there is no universal definition of what it means to be clean. Goldberg cited the oft-used, ill-informed quote that the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has only banned 11 additives in cosmetic products.

Although no one has defined it, some marketers are already moving beyond the term “clean.” Goldberg said the lines are now blurred between clinical and clean. According to NPD, clinical brands making public statements on clean ingredients are growing 100%. Furthermore, nearly half of the US prestige skin care market makes use of clinical ingredients.

“Glow Recipe focuses on active ingredients at clinical levels plus natural extracts and fruits,” she said.

Beauty formulas must be clean and sustainable. Goldberg cited Mintel data that 64% of US beauty consumers would like to see more innovative sustainability ideas from beauty brands. Furthermore, although sustainable brands make up just 16% of the market, they are driving 55% of the market growth.

“Climate change is the sustainability factor that consumers care about the most right now,” she asserted.

Sephora answered consumer demand by issuing its Clean + Planet Positive Seal. To earn the seal, brands must follow guidelines that include:
• Reduced headspace for secondary packaging;
• No single-use items for PR/mailers/products;
• Designed for recyclability and includes PCR;
• RSPO palm oil/palm oil derivatives;
• Responsible sourcing of mica;
• No microplastics; and
• Responsible environmental giving.

To meet demands for clean and sustainable products, Glow Recipe recently launched a refillable moisturizer. But one member in the audience noted that the plastic refills cause just as much of an environmental headache as traditional packaging.

Identifying the Consumer of Clean Beauty

Franca Zanovello, founder and CEO of Zanovello Consultants, concluded the session by noting that 90% of all US consumers believe that natural or naturally-derived beauty ingredients are better for them. Furthermore, 60% of all US consumers are looking for better, more natural beauty options and are willing to pay more for them. Within this group, 43% are Millennials between the ages of 25 and 43.

“Consumers are less concerned about beauty trends, partially due to the Millennial-driven focus on individuality and authenticity,” she insisted. “The clean beauty consumer is super smart, educated, eager to learn and demanding.”

Citing data from NPD, Kline and Spate, Zanovello put the global clean beauty market at $42 billion in 2022—up from $11 billion in 2016. Impressive, but clean beauty represents just a fraction of the $4.2 trillion global wellness industry.

Zanovello cited Kline research showing that major companies such as Johnson & Johnson, Unilever and Estée Lauder are the largest players in the natural personal care space, but the top five companies account for only one-third of category sales. No surprise then that brands such as Kopari, Youth to People and Beauty Counter have posted triple-digit sales gains in recent years.

“Clean beauty is dynamic,” she concluded. “There are lots of opportunities for big and small brands.”