We’ve all learned to simplify our routines this past year. With the New Normal carrying over into 2021, the wellness trend has taken the front seat in the beauty marketplace in nearly all segments. For hairstyling, in particular, while a shopper might still stock up on his or her favorite gel, mousse, serum or spray, it will tend to sit in the medicine cabinet a little longer than in prior years and will often perform a double duty, like maintaining hair color or moisturizing locks that are long overdue for a trim.

In short, the pandemic has not only impacted consumer hair color and styles, it has also had an effect on how people are caring for their tresses in general at home.

According to Emily Boulin, Sally Beauty, SallyCrew ambassador and professional stylist, Baltimore, MD, “With social distancing becoming the new norm in day-to-day life, people who visited the salon regularly are now recreating their favorite salon hair treatments and services at home.”

Kim Kimble, founder of Kim Kimble Beauty/Kim Kimble Professional Products, Los Angeles, agrees.

“COVID-19 has been very difficult on the hair care business. It is becoming harder and harder for stylists to maintain their businesses and keep their clients as events are cancelled and salons begin to close after having to shut down for such a long period,” she told Happi.

As a result, could the days of statement styles like buns, topknots or even mohawks be on hold until further notice—no pun intended? Mass market numbers look bleak.

Hair spray/spritz sales slipped 18.2% to $552.9 million, while hair styling gel/mousse sales fell 7.4% to $997.5 million, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Dec. 17, 2020.

In prestige, hair styling product sales declined as well. According to The NPD Group, hair styling sales fell 15% to $191 million from January 2020 through November 2020.


Style for Miles

Despite the gloomy results, some industry experts insist specialized products will save the hairstyling market in 2021.

“Generic styling products like mousses, hairsprays and heat protecting serums have, however, seen much slower growth with purchases significantly slowing, because customers haven’t felt the need to heat-style at home,” Lorna Mitchell, co-founder of Noughty Haircare, UK, told Happi. “Niche market segments such as texture and curls have dominated growth and, in some instances, are bucking the more generic trends.” 

For example, as part of Noughty’s Wave Hello curly-girl range, Hey Curl Scrunching Jelly, its latest styling product which launched in August 2020, has quickly become the company’s best-seller since the brand launched in 2016, with success primarily due to its natural curl enhancing capability, noted Mitchell.

“In short, hair care has largely become an extension to the customer’s beauty regime with the ‘skinification’ of hair care increasingly prevalent,” she added. “The hybrids that combine skin care technology with hair care have amplified; scalp tonics and overnight serums, for example.”

Happi Expert Opinion contributor Philip Pelusi is optimistic about the styling segment for 2021.

“At a time when we all need to be physically distant from each other, it seems we are all closer than ever when it comes to choosing and wearing our hairstyles,” he noted. “We have known that our industry has always been about helping people feel a certain way on the inside by enhancing or changing the way they look on the outside, helping create their best version or vision of themselves. And now, more than ever, how we make people feel through haircuts, color, style and hair condition is critical in so many ways.”


New for the Year

More women want professional-level hair care routines that are manageable within their everyday life. Therefore, beginning this month, Suave hair care is providing workable, ready-for-anything hair with its new with its new Suave Pink Line, available at Walmart.

Inspired by the priming concept popular within skin care routines, the products are split into specific four-step regimens—cleanse, condition, prep and shape—tailored to hair type and desired benefits. Hair is kept strong, more manageable and ready to style for any look, according to the brand.

Products include Smooth Performer Shampoo & Conditioners, Luscious Curls Shampoo & Conditioners, Up The Volume Shampoo & Conditioners, Smooth Performer Anti-Frizz Cream, Luscious Curls Defining Cream, Dry Texture Finishing Spray, Blow Dry Accelerator Heat Protecting Spray, Air Dry Cream Heat-Free Styler and Hair Refresher Dry Shampoo for styling.

Also new at multiple retailers is Suave Professionals for Natural Hair, a line of nutrient-rich formulations. Collaborating with a community of more than 5,000 natural haired women, the brand developed a collection with rich moisture and gentle care specifically designed to nourish curls, coils and waves.

The new Suave Professionals for Natural Hair Castor Oil and Mango Butter Collection is formulated to promote healthy-looking hair. The unique combination of castor oil helps to nourish, while mango butter works to moisturize. These formulas visibly repair and strengthen for soft to the touch hair, and are paraben- and dye-free. Products include a scalp oil, style butter and defining gel.

Meanwhile, P&G’s Pantene is also rolling out some natural solutions in the styling category. Made with a vitamin E-rich essence cold-pressed from the seeds of the Tanzanian baobab tree, Pantene’s Hydrating Glow Collection restores softness and gives a healthy glow to dry, highlighted hair. Sulfate-Free Hydrating Glow Thirsty Ends Milk to Water Serum transforms from a creamy milk to fast-absorbing hydration upon contact with your hand.

The Essence range from Pantene absorbs deeply for lasting hydration that helps prevent dry ends from becoming split ends. Thanks to its hydrating properties, baobab essence has been used by Tanzanian women for centuries to treat skin issues, hydrate and elongate curls, and protect skin and hair from the sun. Derived from the petals and buds of the Rosa Gallica plant that thrives in the Mediterranean region and throughout the Middle East, Pantene’s Rose Water Collection is rich in skin-hydrating vitamins B5 and B3. Rosewater has been used as a beauty tool for centuries, with many using it to hydrate, freshen and protect both the hair and skin. To set up for styling, Sulfate-Free Miracle Moisture Boost Petal Soft Hair Treatment is a rinse-off deep treatment that provides intense hydration, leaving strands petal soft even on consumer’s driest hair days.

Designed to nourish and add thickness to fine or thin hair from root to end, Pantene’s Bamboo Collection is infused with rich B vitamins extracted from bamboo shoots grown in China’s Fujian Provence. Women in the Fujian Provence believe hair health reflects inner health and that resilient hair starts at the scalp. Pantene’s Bamboo Silicone-Free Thickness Multiplier Leave-In Treatment enables thicker, fuller-looking locks on any day when applied to hair’s roots and scalp, and can be used on both wet and dry hair.

The vitamin-E-rich formula in Pantene’s Castor Oil comes from the seeds of India’s native Ricinus communis plant. The Sulfate-Free Overnight Repair Serum acts as a quickly-absorbing treatment to repair and revive tired strands while you sleep to reveal a morning shine, without the mess of an oil.

Herbal Essences is on a mission to bring “plant power” for 2021 with new PETA Cruelty-Free certified Bio:Renew formulas which are paraben-, mineral oil- and dye-free.

In addition to its 90% naturally-derived formulas and signature scents, the brand’s Bio:Renew lineup has something for everyone with offerings for all hair types. For example, Herbal Essences Hemp Seed Oil + Aloe Hair Oil Mist utilizes dual-phase technology to moisturize hair for instant shine, frizz control and smooth manageable locks. Hair is left soft and smooth with an aroma of lush tropical fruits, sugarcane and white musk, according to the brand.

Meanwhile, the Herbal Essences Mango + Potent Aloe Curl Cream enhances hair for more defined curls, while also combatting frizz and boosting shine.

Curly, wavy and textured hair has specific needs. To keep those curls looking and feeling their best, specialty products that are specifically designed to meet the needs of textured hair are a must. What makes them necessary? It’s the combination of results-driven formulas that ensure the health, proper conditioning, manageability and visible shine of hair every day!

Two key ApHogee finishing products that every textured hair woman and man should have in their arsenal in 2021 are the curl serum and definer, said the company. Curlific! Hydrating Curl Serum is touted as the perfect finishing serum to lock in moisture, shine and soft hold. Hydrating Curl Serum provides added gloss, hydration and control for fine to coarse hair and its formula contains nourishing quinoa amino acids. The Curlific! Curl Definer adds the right amount of definition, moisture and control to any curly chaos! Styles resist humidity all day while hair stays soft, conditioned and lustrous. It offers a medium hold to keep curls defined all day long. ApHogee is available at Sally Beauty Supply stores nationwide, Walmart.com and other independent beauty supply stores and salons.

Kim Kimble’s new Curly Pudding Crème is formulated with avocado, olive and sweet almond oils, and shea butter to keep hair looking and feeling luscious while adding shine, moisture, bounce and strength to the natural curl pattern. The new Repair Serum heals and seals split ends as it nourishes and softens distressed hair. This reparative leave-in formula also utilizes the latest in polymer technology to bond with hair keratin, literally fusing together dry, frizzy, split ends providing dependable protection against mechanical, chemical and environmental stress. Finally, the Shine Spray is packed with jojoba seed oil that smooths and softens frizzy or fried ends and vitamin E antioxidants to protect hair from environmental hazards. This spray adds elegant shine to dull, dry hair, said Kimble. It also provides UV protection and speeds up the blow-drying process.

“As people are doing their own hair at home, they need products that are easy to use and simple,” Kimble told Happi. “They are also looking for products that are hydrating and super conditioning as we are spending a lot of time indoors that can really dry out the hair.”

At Garnier, the Whole Blends Coconut Oil & Cocoa Butter Miracle Frizz Tamer Leave-in joined the Whole Blends Miracle Treatment Collection. Whole Blend’s treatments include ingredients such as honey, coconut oil and cocoa butter, which are blended into multi-purpose, leave-in treatments to restore the look of healthy hair. Miracle Treatments are blended with sustainably-sourced ingredients that are free of sulfates, parabens, mineral oil, petrolatum, dyes and gluten. The brand also rolled out Whole Blends Repairing Leave-In Miracle Nectar with honey.

Also from L’Oréal Paris are a few new products within its Elvive collection. Elvive Dream Lengths Frizz Killer Serum tames frizz and static with a non-greasy feel. The leave-in formula also offers up to 450-degree heat protection.

Also new is Elvive Dream Lengths Super Curls Cream. Deeply nourish and define your curls with this creamy leave-in that melts onto lengths for soft and bouncy hair. For best use, apply a quarter-size amount to damp hair from root to end, and scrunch hair gently to style.

Cap it off with the Elvive Dream Lengths Pre-Iron Spray, an ultra-lightweight, caring pre-iron spray to help reduce frizz, hydrate and seal in shine for three-day sleek hair. It also protects up to 450 degrees.


Prestige Stylers

Aveda just reached a new milestone in the brand’s sustainability journey: all of its hair care, hair color, body care, makeup and aroma products are now 100% vegan. Aveda has been cruelty-free since the brand was founded in 1978 and was primarily vegan with the exception of some products that contained honey, beeswax and beeswax-derived ingredients.

“Removing beeswax was one of the biggest challenges for Aveda formulators because it helps to create texture, structure, color payoff, and smoothness,” explained Christine Hall, VP-R&D.

Barbara De Laere, Aveda’s global brand president, added, “Behind the Aveda brand is a team of people that are passionate and energized by our mission to care for the world we live in, and our transition to 100% vegan formulations is a testament to the hard work of this team as they embarked on reformulating and repackaging our products. This work has been in progress for more than three years and it is a big milestone for us: it is part of our brand promise to create high-performance products that are 90% naturally-derived (on average) and formulated with our mission of sustainability in mind. We believe in no-compromise formulas at Aveda: there is no reason why we can’t have sustainable, animal-friendly products that work for all hair types and textures.”

The latest creation from the expert stylist team at R+Co is R+Co Bleu, a sustainable prestige hair care collection. Each product is fully sustainable and is formulated with high-performing, non-toxic ingredients, including the Bleu Molecule Complex, which builds strength and shine.

Led by the world’s top editorial stylists, R+Co (Rogue and Company) was designed around the concept that collaboration is critical to creating the industry’s best products. The 21-SKU line ranges in price from $52 to  $77 and is paraben-free, sulfate-free, gluten-free, petroleum-free and keratin treatment safe, according to the company. The hairdresser-driven formulations include creams, waxes, pomades, foams, aerosols, sprays and one oil. Expected to be the top seller of the collection is the Volume spray.

“R+Co was based on the premise of a collective—bringing together hair and beauty’s top talent to create a super line based on a shared vision,” explained Dan Langer, president of R+Co. “The beautiful thing about a collective is that it creates opportunities for collaboration, and also moments to showcase a singular vision. R+Co Bleu is a celebration of the career of Garren, one of the co-founders of R+Co, and is an unadulterated expression of the glamour and transformation that is synonymous with his work.”

Executives at Oribe Hair Care are excited to introduce a new iteration of its best-selling Imperial Blowout Transformative Styling Crème. It features the same high-performing formula but with a new, innovative and eco-friendly package design. This unique cream-to-oil-to-powder formula, enclosed in an easy-to-use delivery system, enables consumers and stylists alike to create an iconic Oribe blowout that lasts for days while styling in strength, density, softness and shine.

Part of the brand’s Gold Lust Collection, Imperial Blowout transforms damaged and aging hair to look and feel healthier and younger after just one use, according to the company.

“We redesigned the packaging to make it easier to use than the original,” explained Jennifer Smith, Oribe’s global vice president of packaging design. “This new design allows the product to be continuously dispensed as a beautiful ribbon, so you can easily control how much crème to use depending on your hair type and length. The can is also made from aluminum so it is 100% recyclable.”


Future Trends in Hairstyling

Less is more when it comes to hairstyles in the next year. According to Matrix Artistic Director Nick Stenson, New York, pixie cuts will likely make a comeback.

“Nothing says change and metamorphosis like a great pixie cut with all the right detailing. Just be sure to reach for Biolage R.A.W. Texture Styling Spray to achieve that undone-playful pixie,” he said.

Bobs and layers will also continue to grow in popularity, which means natural texture styling is going to be a major trend for 2021, he insisted.

“Think fewer curling iron curls and more diffused texture that’s manipulated with just the right amount of product for a disheveled feel,” said Stenson. “Matrix Total Results Miss Mess Dry Finishing Spray will be an essential tool to get this look. Tousled textures will likely be accompanied by a deep side part that provides that extra dose of volume. Dare I say it…we may even start hearing more rumors about texture waves from those that want a little more volume or texture in their natural style.”

At New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2021, the hairstyles at the Jason Wu show were soft and approachable, created to let individuality and natural texture shine through.

“The look is very at ease to complement the collection's more casual feel. We are celebrating every hair texture represented on the runway and treating each model individually based on their hair length, cut and texture. There are models with straight, wavy, curly and coiled textures,” explained Holli Smith, lead stylist at AZ Craft Haircare who worked on the models at the show. “Some have shorter cuts and some have braided hair. We thought it was best for some to have an easy, dry low ponytail with their own hair textures to expose the neckline of the clothing. Others have their hair down in a messy but soft texture and those with shorter hair had the best version of their own look.”

For curly girls with highly textured hair, expect to see even more focus on embracing natural texture with twist outs and wash and go styles,” added Stenson of Matrix.

And, don’t forget the greening of hair care products coming through the pipeline. According to Mitchell of Noughty Hair Care, brands are carefully considering every step of the product development journey, taking a systematic approach to sustainability.

“Companies are considering everything from sourcing, manufacturing, packaging and selling, to measuring carbon foot print, energy usage and waste, with the aim of reducing environmental impact,” explained Mitchell. “In terms of ingredient sustainability, bi-products from the food industry are starting to appear in hair care.” 

Wellness is another key trend for styling, in step with the rest of the beauty business.

According to Boulin of the SallyCrew, “We will also see a rise in top-of-the-line damage-defying ingredients being the focus for most consumers. I believe this is because the world has pushed us to seek out better self-care by taking a closer look at what we choose to use on our bodies, and how we take care of ourselves.” 

New Ingredients for Hair Styling
 
Here are new hair styling ingredients launched by suppliers during the past 12 months. To learn more, contact the supplier directly using the information listed.

Kobo Products, Inc.

South Plainfield, New Jersey
Phone: (908) 757 – 0033

Email: [email protected]
Website: www.koboproducts.com
 
INULIN-SC

INCI: Inulin

Suggested Use Levels: 0.1-5%

Applications: Emulsions and water-based gel formulations
Attributes: INULIN-SC is a natural, sugar-cane derived, multi-functional active, that serves as an excellent skin and hair moisturizer. It provides formulations with an improved texture without changing viscosity, creates dense bubbles, increases bubble volume, and acts as a non-ionic hair conditioner to smooth hair fibers.
 
Natural Olive Esters Treatment (NOE)

INCI: Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters
Suggested Use Levels: 1-95%

Applications: Emulsions, anhydrous hot pours and powders
Attributes: Olive oil and its derivatives have many advantages but in particular, are very moisturizing for skin and hair. The Natural Olive Esters Treatment (NOE) using Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters makes pigments and powders hydrophobic. In hair products, treated pigments impart coverage and concealing properties to scalp and hair.
 
 
Koster Keunen
Watertown, CT
Tel:860-945-3333
Email: [email protected]
Website:www.kosterkeunen.com
 
Kostol TMC-25
Chemical description: Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride
Applications: Emulsification, Thickening, Conditioning, Anti-Static Agent, Detangling, Sulfate-Free Claim, Frizz Control, PEG-Free, RSPO
Suggested Use Levels: 1-10%
Attributes: Kostol TMC-25 is a plant based, cationic oil-in-water emulsifier. It provides conditioning, detangling, static control and frizz reduction. Kostol TMC-25 is unique as it has been created without volatile materials like other behentrimonium chloride emulsifiers you may find on the market.  The removal of flammable and volatile content ensures safety in the lab, production and reduces regulatory issues for markets that prohibit these additives.
 
Kester Wax CT
Chemical description: C32-36 Isoalkyl Stearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Stearyl Behenate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polysorbate 60
Applications:  Pomades, Styling, Beard Grooming and Ethnic Hair Care. Can be used in all skin, hair and color cosmetic formulations
Suggested Use Levels: 1-17%
Attributes: A vegan alternative to lanolin wax with similar attributes and chemical functionality. A solid wax blend offering texture, plasticizing, and thickening for hair care products.
 
Lubrizol Life Science – Beauty
Cleveland, OH
Tel: 800-379-5389
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.lubrizol.com/beauty
 
Fixate styling polymers
Chemical description: Depends on the ingredient (Fixate™ G-100 PR polymer: AMP-Acrylates/Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer; Fixate™ Freestyle polymer: Acrylates Crosspolymer-3; Fixate Superhold polymer: Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer
Applications: Styling with antipollution benefits
Suggested Use Levels: depends on the ingredient
Attributes: Not only designed to create formulations with unique textures and formats, Fixate styling polymers do more. Achieve a range of looks, from a natural hold to a more rigid finish, while also protecting hair from pollution and enabling damaging particles to be washed away.
 
Protameen Chemicals 
Totowa, NJ 
Tel: 973) 256-4374
Email: [email protected] / [email protected]
Website: WWW.PROTAMEEN.COM
Anti Frizz conditioner
Chemical description:  Featuring Protathix 100XT:  Polyquaternium-37
Applications: Hair Conditioner
Suggested Use Levels: 0.25 – 1.00%
Attributes: The 100XT works with the ISL 35L and Shea butter to give great shine and leaves hair feeling moisturized, conditioned and frizz free. It’s safe for color treated hair, sulfate and parabens free.
 
 
Seiwa Kasei Ltd.
Tel: +81-72-987-2626
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.seiwakasei.jp/en/
 
Promois GOMA-SIG
Chemical description:　 Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Water
Applications: Hair styling mist, Hair styling spray, Hair styling cream
Suggested Use Levels: 0.4-2.0%
Attributes: Promois GOMA-SIG is a silylated derivative of hydrolyzed sesame protein. It forms a film on the hair in response to heat that results in protection of heat-induced damage such as hair dryer or iron.
 
Vegetamide 18MEA-NJ
Chemical description: Cetearamidoethyldiethonium Succinoyl Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Glycerin, Water
Applications: Hair styling mist, Hair styling mousse
Suggested Use Levels:　1.0-5.0%
Attributes: Vegetamide 18MEA-NJ, “plant-derived liquid cuticle” has a similar structure to F-Layer (containing 18-MEA) which is the structure of hair cuticles. It adsorbs to the damaged hair surface and restores to a healthy state with excellent texture.
 
Amitose R-PD
Chemical description: Dihydroxypropyl Arginine HCl, Water
Applications: Hair styling mist, Hair styling gel, Leave on treatment
Suggested Use Levels: 1.0-3.0%
Attributes: Amitose R-PD, “long-lasting moisturizer” suppresses hair frizzing. Too humid or dry condition sometimes cause hair frizzing. Amitose R helps keep hair styling by control of static electricity and moisture. This product matches Japanese trend “wet-like hair” due to its long-lasting moisturizing effect.
 
Silab
Saint-Viance, France
Tel: +33 (0)5 55 84 58 40
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.silab.fr

Agreynist
Chemical description: biopeptides; phenolic acids; flavonoids
Applications: hair care products
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5 to 2.5% (preservative-free solution)
Attributes: Agreynist is an anti-free radical and pro-pigmenting active obtained by combining the efficacies of black oat and spiny restharrow, enabling the original color of gray hair to be restored. It regulates the biological pathways causing hair to gray, thus decreasing the number of gray hairs in Caucasian and Asian volunteers.