The face of beauty has changed slightly in the past year—and for the better! Consumers are paring down their routines but upping their game when it comes to shopping for color cosmetics. Value, appealing packaging and beneficial ingredients are standing out when it comes to makeup launches for 2021. And while consumers can’t take that exotic vacation right now, they can still treat themselves to a new tube of Zoom-worthy matte lipstick, dazzling shimmer eyeshadow or nourishing all-day wear foundation.

“We have normalized the mask selfie, turned on Zoom’s touch up feature, and reallocated the time we spent setting, baking, and covering our skin to caring for our skin,” Melinda Solares, Sephora beauty director, Los Angeles, told Happi. “There is a theory in the fashion industry that suggests the length of hemline we choose is directly correlated to the state of our politics and economy. The hemline is short when we are doing well and long when we are having a hard time. This has been proven decade after decade. I believe the same theory is true for the beauty industry and makeup. When things are going well, we are more likely to show off our artistry and play with makeup. However, when times are tough, it is only natural that we gravitate towards self-care and natural makeup looks.”

Simone Xavier, founder and chief creative officer of Sigma Beauty, Saint Paul, MN, agrees.

“Consumers are definitely looking for the small ways they can pamper themselves and feel uplifted and basically just try to ‘feel’ like they did before the pandemic…going through this has been a great opportunity for everyone to focus on self-care, such as skin care and lip care,” she said.

Zoom calls are also a prime opportunity for a “pick me up” session, according to Xavier.

“I will speak for myself here, but as I prepare for a Zoom call I like to look presentable, professional and well put together, as if I were in the office,” she said. “I go for lightweight complexion products, neutral eyeshadows and lip color­—basically just looking like a better version of myself without trying too hard … I feel we are all just trying to make the best out of our current situation and makeup definitely helps us express how we are dealing with the new norm.”

And, it’s not just consumers who are seeing the effects of a pandemic. Retailers have had to change their marketing approach in the past year to fit the New Normal.

“COVID-19 has most definitely impacted the makeup industry this year,” noted Taylor Frankel, co-founder of Nudestix, Toronto. “The most obvious impact is sales—as customers are being increasingly more cautious in their purchasing behaviors. On a positive note, it has forced brands to re-think how they conduct business, from content and marketing strategies, to company culture and virtual team meetings. Makeup brands, like us, who exist in a retail landscape, have been forced to turn to social media and digital platforms to bring their launches to life.”

The US prestige beauty industry generated sales of $16.1 billion in 2020, a 19% decline compared to the year prior, according to The NPD Group. By category, makeup sales were down 34% for the year. Despite the tight race between makeup and skin care throughout the year, makeup ultimately maintained its position as the largest beauty category based on dollar sales for 2020; however, it has also been the most negatively impacted by the pandemic. According to The NPD Group, face color remained the largest segment in makeup. While face sales declined faster than the overall category, some products increased their market share including setting spray/powder, tinted moisturizer, bronzer and concealer. Eye makeup gained share while lip saw the steepest declines, a shift that has, in part, been a byproduct of mask wearing. Nail was the only segment of makeup to grow in 2020 as consumers took nail care into their own hands.

“As was the case for many other industries, prestige beauty faced several challenges in 2020 from temporary store closures to reduced demand. Although we cannot deny the numbers, we also cannot overlook the fact that our industry is still holding its ground and, in some cases, flourishing,” said Larissa Jensen, NPD’s beauty industry advisor.

The same can’t said in mass channels. Eye cosmetic sales slipped 13.4% to $1.8 billion, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Dec. 27, 2020. Facial cosmetics sales dipped 22.2% to $16 billion and lip cosmetics slipped 29.2% to $617.1 million. However, nail cosmetics rose 18.1% to $1.7 billion, according to IRI. (See chart below).


Colors of the Year

Color expert Pantone revealed a pair of top trending hues for 2021. Both Pantone 17-5104 Ultimate Gray and Pantone 13-0647 Illuminating were named Pantone Color of the Year.

According to the company, which often determines the next big thing in beauty and fashion, these two independent colors come together to create an aspirational color pairing, conjoining deeper feelings of thoughtfulness with the optimistic promise of a sunshine filled day. Illuminating is a bright and cheerful yellow sparkling with vivacity, a warming yellow shade imbued with solar power. Ultimate Gray is emblematic of solid and dependable elements which are everlasting and provide a firm foundation. The colors of pebbles on the beach and natural elements whose weathered appearance highlights an ability to stand the test of time, Ultimate Gray quietly assures, encouraging feelings of composure, steadiness and resilience, said Pantone.

A mix of warm and cool tones, combining Ultimate Gray and Illuminating in hair or nail makes a dramatic statement. Illuminating sparkles and shimmers when paired with Ultimate Gray in eye makeup.

“The selection of two independent colors highlight how different elements come together to express a message of strength and hopefulness that is both enduring and uplifting, conveying the idea that it’s not about one color or one person, it’s about more than one. The union of an enduring Ultimate Gray with the vibrant yellow Illuminating expresses a message of positivity supported by fortitude,” explained Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. “Practical and rock solid but at the same time warming and optimistic, this is a color combination that gives us resilience and hope. We need to feel encouraged and uplifted, this is essential to the human spirit.”

“The Pantone Color of the Year reflects what is taking place in our global culture, expressing what people are looking for that color can hope to answer,” added Laurie Pressman, vice president of the Pantone Color Institute. “As society continues to recognize color as a critical form of communication, and a way to symbolize thoughts and ideas, many designers and brands are embracing the language of color to engage and connect.”


Holding Their Gaze

Whether lined in Ultimate Gray or another trendy hue, the eyes still have it in color cosmetics for Spring 2021. Consumers covet effective mascaras that make peepers pop and liners that emphasize eyes. Eyeshadows still offer entertainment as there is a variety of mattes and metallic to choose from by way of palettes and singles. And, groomed brows and related pencils and products remain in demand.

CoverGirl’s latest launch is Lash Blast Clean Volume Mascara, which the brand says is the first clean, sustainable, 100% vegan and cruelty free mascara to hit mass retailers at an affordable price. The formula was created without parabens, sulfates, talc and mineral oil and with “lash-loving” ingredients like argan and marula oil.

“We are also aware while our consumers are looking for a cleaner formula for their cosmetics, they also want to shop responsibly,” the brand said in a statement. Like its other products, this new mascara is Leaping Bunny Approved.

The newest mascara to join the Lancôme portfolio this season is Lash Idôle. According to the brand, this new mascara “targets and volumizes every single lash, lifting and fanning lashes out with zero clumps.” The gel emulsion formula is infused with white tea extract and contains four times less wax than the average mascara leaving lashes feeling light and feathery soft for up to 24-hour wear.

With this new launch, Lancôme has also developed an elastomer brush that includes micro-bristles in different sizes. The inventive spoon brush reaches every lash for buildable volume and length, creating lifted fanned out lashes, according to the brand, which has tapped actress, activist and Lancôme ambassador Zendaya for the campaign.

Another eye makeup leader is looking to brows for inspiration in 2021. Maybelline’s latest rollout is Maybelline New York Tattoo Studio Longwear Brow Pencil. According to the company, this brow product features the highest level of pigments in its eyebrow portfolio in an easy-to-use, sharpenable pencil, for defined brows that last up to 36 hours.

The Tattoo Studio Longwear Brow Pencil features cream-to-powder polymers for easy application and comfortable wear. The high-performance, longwearing formula is waterproof, smudge resistant and is available in Light Blonde, Blonde, Soft Brown, Medium Brown, Deep Brown and Black Brown shades.

Also new at Maybelline New York is Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara. This ultra-lengthening mascara delivers full volume and limitless length, said the company. The exclusive Flex Tower brush bends to volumize and extends every lash from root to tip. The formula is infused with bamboo extract and fibers for long, lashes that never get weighed down. It is available in Washable Blackest Black, Very Black, Waterproof Very Black and Brownish Black.

Another novel launch for eyes this season is from natural beauty brand Lawless. Its Bio Glitter is touted as a first-of-its-kind clean, vegan and biodegradable pressed glitter eyeshadow. The soft, long-wearing formula gives an iridescent sparkle without the under-eye mess. It debuted in two hues—Champagne Dreams and Sparkling Rose.

For those missing the glittering disco balls of the ’70s or the grungy vibe of the ’90s, there’s Urban Decay’s collection of Decades Mini Eyeshadow Palettes. According to the company, these mini palettes include six eyeshadow shades with varying finishes (from matte to metallic) and a mirror for creating looks on the go. Packaging is inspired by the past, and Urban Decay says its formula delivers velvety texture and a rich color payoff.

Also new at Urban Decay by way of eye color is Urban Decay 24/7 Eyeshadow, a lineup of 25 high-performance, ultra-pigmented shades that go on smooth with a velvety texture and stay put for up to 12 hours; 24/7 Moondust Eyeshadow, a fan-favorite formula that got an all-vegan upgrade with an extra shot of caffeine to perk up the eyes; and, vegan, caffeine-infused 24/7 Shadow Sticks available in a range of finishes from satin and shimmer to matte and metallic.

And let’s not forget gender neutral makeup, a trend that is strong in 2021. MAC Cosmetics’ newest collaboration is with LA-bred, London-based fashion designer Harris Reed. This limited-edition makeup collection with the gender-fluid fashion designer celebrates individuality with this curated, limited edition collection inspired by glam-rock romanticism. Creamy colors from soft Victorian pink to glam-rock metallics for eyes are as versatile in effect as they are in spirit, said the company. Alongside a palette of nine eye shadows, there’s a duo of luminous cheek tints, a rosy lip trio and a universally flattering metallic eye liner—all exclusively housed in gilded Renaissance-inspired packaging.


Fresh Faced

Shoppers right now are covering facial formulations that moisturize or treat skin concerns and add a hint of color. A pop of blush or highlighter can make the cheeks stand out on a Zoom call or above the mask. And, there is a constant need for concealer as dark circles or zits don’t quit just because you’re home all the time now.

CoverGirl is bursting with color and innovation in its new Spring 2021 makeup launches. For 2021, the color cosmetics leader created the Outlast Collection for those who are looking for a flawless complexion and a pout that never needs a touch up. Also new this month is CoverGirl’s first full-coverage foundation, Outlast Extreme Wear 3-in-1 Full Coverage Liquid Foundation, as well as new neutral shades for the tried and true Outlast All-Day Lip Color line. The foundation also contains SPF 18 sunscreen.

Meanwhile, new Simply Ageless Instant Wrinkle Blurring Pressed Powder with hyaluronic acid and vitamin C also joins the CoverGirl portfolio as well as the Perfect Point Plus Liquid Liner, which has a high-pigment formula that lasts up to 12 hours. Also joining the lineup is Clean Fresh Lip Tint, to be sold exclusive to Ulta in March. According to CoverGirl, this product is a lightweight and moisturizing lip tint that adds instant, glossy color that’s not sticky or drying. The long lasting, hydrating formula is infused with sweet almond oil and coconut oil.

Anastasia Beverly Hills, known for its standout brow products, has expanded into facial color cosmetics with a new highlighter. According to the company, this product is an all-skin tone flattering highlighter with the perfect combination of smooth finish and ultra- beam effects for a “lit from within” radiance. With the feel of second skin, this refined highlighter delivers a multi-dimensional wet effect shine, with the high reflectivity of a liquid and the weightlessness of a powder. The Iced Out shade is universal and delivers buildable intensity. The Highlighter can be used to highlight anywhere on the face, body, eyes and lips, according to the brand.

Revlon recently introduced ColorStay Light Cover Foundation, a lightweight formula that the brand says wears, cares and protects all day. ColorStay Light Cover Foundation is “a touch above” in every way, combining skin-loving ingredients and longwear performance into a lightweight, fluid texture for light-to-medium coverage with true color payoff, said the company.

Revlon’s innovative formula contains custom blend pigments suspended in a matrix formula that melts and adheres to skin for a natural-looking finish that never feels greasy. Formulated without parabens, fragrance, phthalates or mineral oil, and infused with concentrated pomegranate, skin is left feeling smooth and looking even all day with the protection of broad spectrum SPF 34.

Ready to glow for it? Meet Urban Decay Stay Naked Hydromaniac Tinted Glow Hydrator—a vegan tinted foundation with 24-hour hydration, coverage and glow. With a lightweight, dewy formula and buildable coverage, Hydromaniac is this year’s easiest and comfiest foundation ever, according to the company, which combined fermented kombucha with marula and ginger oils known to detox and clarify the complexion. The makeup also gives a 30% boost in skin’s natural hydration, according to the company. It is available in 12 shades ranging from Ultra Deep to Ultra Fair.

Essence makeup rolled out its new Pretty Natural Hydrating Foundation. The $6.99 formulation feels luxurious and is packed with a repertoire of hydrating ingredients, longwearing aspects and an exceptional “my-skin-but-better” finish, said the company. It is available in 31 shades and contains hyaluronic acid and aloe vera. This medium coverage foundation hydrates skin with a weightless feel for up to 24 hours. The brand is also reporting success with its Brighten Up! Banana Powder. It makes highlighting, setting, baking and blending easy with a single pressed powder.

Sensitive skin expert Clinique is tackling blemishes and dark circles. Clinique Even Better All-Over Concealer + Eraser is a lightweight full-coverage concealer that instantly perfects and visibly de-puffs over time. A dual-ended applicator features flocked-tip doe foot wand and built-in sponge blurring blender. The formula is fortified with vitamin C, while hyaluronic acid helps hydrate and plump fine, dry lines, and caffeine helps energize. Color stays true and doesn’t streak, and the formula resists creasing and settling for 12 hours, said the company.

For redness, Erborian CC Red Correct with broad-spectrum SPF 25 helps shield skin from harmful UVA/UVB rays as well as cover blotches and blemishes. One of the first of many skin care/makeup hybrids from the line, CC Red Correct gives skin an all-natural radiance and ultra-soft finish, said the company. While CC Red Correct clears the skin of redness, it does not, like many other redness products, leave the skin absent of any blush or healthy hue. The concealer contains light green pigments to help correct redness and encapsulated pigments to conceal other imperfections. Upon application, this color-correcting formula adjusts to user’s skin tone to help enhance the complexion. A key ingredient is centella asiatica, which helps to protect, hydrate skin and boost radiance. CC Red Correct can unify complexion, conceal redness, camouflage dehydration, reduce the appearance of fine lines, and refine the appearance of skin’s texture.

Fellow concealer leader Cover FX launched its first skin care product, Custom Blending Moisturizer. As the brand’s first product to truly bridge skin care and makeup, the prebiotic and probiotic-enriched moisturizer is specially-created with an ultra-blendable formula that can be effortlessly mixed with other products—like foundation— and creates a smooth, even canvas for makeup application, according to Cover FX. It also uses five types of hyaluronic acid.


Stick Around

With the rise of mask usage in the past year, of course lipstick would move to the back burner when it comes to daily makeup. But, marketers are still confident in this beauty staple and as such are formulating more long-wear lip colors for the new year.

Leading the way is Laura Geller with Smart Pout Transfer-Proof Lipstick, which glides softly onto lips for smooth, full coverage. The formula was designed to feel feather light while delivering moisture to dehydrated lips. Smart Pout does not wear off from normal wear and is available in six shades. Plus, it’s transfer-proof, so it will stay on without staining protective masks and clothing. The package features a logo that says “Mask-Friendly” and a quote from Geller that reads: “I created this lipstick to help you navigate through life’s new normal while still looking beautiful.”

L’Oréal Paris’ long-wearing and comfortable lip gloss, L’Oréal Paris Infallible 8HR Pro Gloss, got even better for 2021. Infallible 8HR Pro Gloss, a brand favorite since 2012, will be expandied with six on-trend longwearing shades, which increase the collection to 26 hues. Infallible 8HR Pro Gloss is long-wearing and provides eight hours of color wear and glossy shine. The formula is non-drying and leaves lips feeling moisturized, soft and smooth. The patented petite heart-shaped applicator contours lips precisely for a smooth, even finish.

Also new from L’Oréal Paris is Les Nus by Colour Riche, a satin formula that the brand says goes beyond color. Formulated with argan oil and vitamin E, this collection of nude lipsticks contains a white base to reveal nude pigment intensity while leaving lips feeling soft and providing a comfortable wear all day long. The lip color has a new silhouette bullet shape, made for a precise application, and new floral rose fragrance. It is available in 12 nude shades that provide saturated color in just one coat, said the company.

New from Maybelline New York is Color Sensational Ultimatte Slim Lipstick, the brand’s first “extreme matte” slim lipstick delivering weightless intensity. Color Sensational Ultimatte Slim Lipstick is formulated with texture blurring gels for an extreme matte finish. It features an angled slim bullet shape for precise and easy to use application. The lipstick is available in 10 shades: More Berry, More Ruby, More Scarlet, More Blush, More Mauve, More Buff, More Taupe, More Magenta, More Rust and More Truffle.

New Faces Going Places
Indie beauty entrepreneurs are tapped into cutting-edge trends and want a piece of the billion-dollar makeup marketplace. During the past few months, new brands entered the color cosmetics category with some novel concepts.

Latina beauty maven and entrepreneur Carolyn Aronson, CEO and founder of It’s A 10 Haircare, officially launched her first cosmetics brand, Be A 10, in late 2020.

“From my earliest days in the beauty industry, and through the years leading up to the success of It’s A 10 Haircare, I have always maintained that my products be trusted for quality ingredients and that they truly deliver on the promised benefits and results. That’s why I wanted to enter the cosmetics space, to continue to create products that are easy-to-use and address beauty needs from head to toe,” Aronson commented.

The certified cruelty-free makeup line boasts a range of products, like a heat activated lipstick, an aqueous oil mist primer, weightless metallic eye shadows, mascara, lip glosses, highlighters. Be A 10 was created for the multi-tasker at heart—“the everyday individual in pursuit of easy-to-use makeup that provides a finished, professional-quality look in 10-minutes-or less.”

When creating the brand, Aronson looked at her target-market and realized they were overwhelmed by the amount of choices available to them. She aimed to simplify their routines and free up the fussy number of steps and time typical routines require. The result was a range of products, all of which are multi-use, and can fit in one makeup bag. Another new makeup line, M2U NYC—an abbreviation of Makeup 2 U—was born out of the need to show makeup lovers that it is possible to have an affordable, high quality and stylish makeup routine.

Leading the way are Metallic Liquid Lipsticks ($7) in statement shades like Empire State or Utopia. After spending over a decade at top beauty companies, M2U NYC’s Co-Founder Amy Chou Granger knew she wanted to offer consumers something different. She sought to create a brand that would truly cater to Gen Z as well as Millennials. In the process, Chou Granger surveyed more than 400 Gen Z consumers to produce a cosmetic line which spoke to their beauty needs. She learned that this market values affordability, transparency, and gorgeous packaging and design.

The celebrity who made fuller lips a trend long before Hollywood icons stole the look for the red carpet, recently rolled out a new makeup brand. Actress Lisa Rinna’s Rinna Beauty brand debuted with Lisa’s Lip Icon kit, which includes lipstick, gloss and liner. This all exclusive, vegan and paraben-free collection of products is also PETA-certified cruelty free.

Meanwhile, Latina actress and activist Patricia De Leon has launched PDL Cosmetics, a line of highly pigmented, cruelty-free, and vegan products that you can pucker up to include a luxe lipstick, liquid lipstick and high-shine lip gloss in rich and vibrant hues. Inspired by the women in her life, the PDL Cosmetics launch collection includes three versatile formulations: High Powered Lipstick, a highly pigmented formula, complete with a matte yet silky finish; Bold Aspirations Liquid Lipstick, which delivers powerful and long-lasting color, leaving the lips matte but never dry; and Sexy Shine Lip Gloss that transforms your pout with high shine and a silky yet non-sticky finish.

Each product offers all-day, hydrating coverage while being cruelty-free, vegan and made in the USA. The brand’s unique formulations and vibrantly distinct color range are designed to help all women “unleash their confidence, conquer the day and feel unlimited,” according to the brand. The shade range reflects the notion of la belleza (beauty), with specially formulated pigmentations that complement Latinx skin tones.

“I created PDL Cosmetics because I have learned throughout my life, career and work with others, that beauty can be positively life changing. Color is incredibly powerful and transformational, and it is important to me that the products are flattering and last all day. The empowering feeling one gets when they put on a great lipstick or lip gloss is why my brand was born to encourage confidence and motivation for all,” said De Leon.

A new contender to the eye makeup game is stepping up to the plate for 2021. Kulfi Beauty is billed as a color cosmetics company founded on the value of celebrating the rich culture and beauty of South Asian women—a group that brand founders contend is often forgotten by the cosmetic industry. The line launched last month and its standout SKUs are playful Kajal (kohl) eyeliners. Kulfi Beauty wants to make daily beauty rituals a moment of celebration, a chance to explore the world of color, and an opportunity for South Asian beauty gurus to feel represented. Founded by former beauty executive Priyanka Ganjoo, who spent years at companies like Estée Lauder and Ipsy, Kulfi Beauty’s vision is to present to the world an empowered South Asian, who is not only comfortable in her skin but thrives in it.

Multi-platinum singer/songwriter Halsey has also launched About-Face, billed as multidimensional color beauty brand. The range rolled out direct-to-consumer via www.aboutface.com in late January.

The highly-pigmented, longwear formulas were inspired by music, fashion and art, and honor inclusivity, acceptance, experimentation and the democratization of beauty for our multiple identities. The launch consists of 10 product categories across a total of 40 SKUs.

The collection is said to embody Halsey’s personal style and love of diverse beauty, initially with three distinct franchises—Light Lock, Matte and Shadowstick. Light Lock, her signature face highlighter range, includes stick, powder, fluid and lip gloss. The Matte range of velvety smooth, creaseless, high-intensity colors consists of Paint-It Matte Lip Colors, Matte Fix Lip Pencils and Matte Fluid Eye Paint, as well as a Set and Prime Spray with application sponge for face. Shadowsticks are precise, multi-tasking cream eyeshadow crayons that feature soft pearly pastels, as well as a high intensity matte velvet in white, teal blue and black for a range of looks for liner and lids. All products are formulated to be vegan, clean and cruelty free. Prices range from $17 to $32.

Technology & Future Trends
Digital drives color cosmetics marketing. For example, the latest creation at MAC Cosmetics is brick and mortar with a twist. The beauty expert opened a retail pilot in Queens, NY in late 2020 that includes an art studio station equipped with iPads featuring a range of customizable makeup looks that can be tried on instantly through AR-powered virtual try-on mirrors. Also to further personalize the in-store experience, MAC will offer new make your own palette and custom foundation services. While in-store, customers can also visit maccosmetics.com and get automatically routed to a mobile store portal where they can book appointments, view artist profiles, save favorite products, access ratings and reviews and make self-service payments.

NYX Professional Makeup has also debuted a multi-platform digital strategy to release its Spring 2021 product collection, including a virtual Triller concert by singer-songwriter Bebe Rexha and an augmented reality pop-up shop within the platform. The Snapchat-powered virtual store allows consumers to dive into a fully immersive shopping experience within the Triller app, including virtual try-on and gaming that can be experienced in both places. The Spring 2021 beauty drop includes vegan products across multiple categories in lip, face and eye.

In late 2020, NYX Professional Makeup was the first beauty brand to launch an AR shopping experience on both Snapchat and Triller, leveraging Snap’s camera kit to make the experience available in Triller’s mobile app. This enables Triller users to interact with the custom Snapchat Lens without leaving the Triller platform, and gives consumers another entry point to the virtual store. Users can access the NYX Professional Makeup virtual store environment through a variety of entry points: through the custom branded Snapchat Lens in the Snapchat Lens carousel or in the Triller app; by using Snapchat to scan a Snapcode; and by using Snapchat to scan NYX Professional Makeup’s Marsh Mellow Smoothing Primer, part of the brand’s Spring 2021 collection.

“As a digital-first beauty brand, we are always looking to surprise and delight our audience with new and exciting experiences,” said Stephanie Binette, general manager of NYX Professional Makeup. “We are experiencing a very dynamic market and our approach is constantly evolving.”

Pinterest is launching AR for eyeshadow, which enables shoppers to browse eyeshadow shades, try them on and purchase in-stock products. Without skin smoothing or image altering effects, Pinterest says its AR try on shows authentic results. The technology is integrated with skin tone ranges, so Pinners (as users of the platform are called) can filter results by makeup that best matches their skin tone. The platform will showcase inspirational looks with similar shades so users can see how the colors appear on others.

The AR try-on for eyeshadow, powered by Lens, is just the latest AR offering from Pinterest, which launched similar AR technology for lipstick last year. The virtual eyeshadow experience is now live across more than 4,000 shades from brands including Lancôme, YSL, Urban Decay and NYX Cosmetics.

Looking ahead, Sarah Jindal, associate director, global beauty and personal care, Mintel, said it’s all about “channel changers” when it comes to marketing beauty and makeup.

“Over the next 12 months, loyalty and lifetime customer value will be driven through multiple, sophisticated, and personalized digital touchpoints that focus on capturing individual lifestyle needs. Brands will need to develop strategies that drive commerce to own-brand sites that advocate authenticity, as well as challenge big marketplaces that have yet to provide clear supply chain transparency. The professional sector should be elevated further to offer an enhanced beauty experience through the use of trained and trusted professionals creating a true omnichannel strategy,” she said.

Besides digital advancements, product development is reflecting consumer’s desires for wellness coupled with an appreciation for trends from the past.

According to Frankel of Nudestix, as we move into Spring/Summer 2021, “we’re still seeing very natural makeup, neutral tone, and a throwback to pastel and earthy hues. We’re also seeing a nod to the 90’s, so lots of mattes and dark romantic tones.” 

A listing of new color cosmetics ingredients follows the textboxes

OPI Celebrates 40th Anniversary In celebration of its 40th anniversary, OPI returns to its birthplace with the Hollywood Collection. Featuring 12 red carpet-ready colors in four different formulas, the range honors “then” with a nod to vintage Hollywood glamour, and “now” with the season’s most trendsetting colors. High-intensity, deeply saturated reds and pinks evoke classic Hollywood style, while sporty blues offer a trend-forward palette. Refreshing, subdued hues of pale lemon, slate blue, bubblegum pink and kelly green offer a pop of color for springtime. Warm neutrals in cream, terracotta, and mauve shades are naturally elegant, according to the iconic nail company. OPI first made its own big screen debut in 2001 with product placement in the iconic movie, Legally Blonde, and has since worked with productions ranging from Alice in Wonderland to Fifty Shades of Grey.  Working with movie studios provided a natural segue into working with celebrity brand ambassadors, a trend OPI pioneered. Actress, producer, director and activist Kerry Washington will serve as brand ambassador for the company’s 40th anniversary. She returns to OPI where she previously served as the brand’s first creative ambassador in 2016. Washington collaborated with OPI Co-Founder Suzi Weiss-Fischmann to create the popular “Washington D.C.” collection. Throughout 2021, OPI will spotlight 40 of the brand’s most iconic shades. To no surprise, among the top shades is Washington’s previously co-created shade “We the Female” a commanding red nail lacquer that was part of the previous collaboration.

Pantone Predicts the Hot Colors of Autumn/Winter 2021/2022 Pantone LLC, a global authority on color and provider of professional color standards for the design industries, has released the Pantone Fashion Color Trend Report Autumn/Winter 2021/2022 edition for New York Fashion Week. Published for the fashion industry by the Pantone Color Institute, this season’s report features the top 10 standout colors, as well as current takes on the four core classics we can expect to see as fashion designers introduce their autumn/winter collections. According to Pantone Color Institute experts, colors for Autumn/Winter 2021/2022 New York “emphasize our desire for a versatile range of color that embraces and accommodates the various possibilities of our bifurcated lifestyle; colors that encourage personal expression whether sensible or quirky; colors that embrace the calm and healing as well as express a rainbow of hope and joyfulness.” “Offering a range of pragmatic hues infused with vivifying bright pops, colors for Autumn/Winter 2021/2022 offer a plethora of possibilities that support our lifestyle of continual reinvention and convey a promise of reemergence,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. Autumn/Winter 2021/2022 NYFW Colors: Pantone 18-4434 Mykonos Blue: A brisk blue evocative of the Aegean Sea Pantone 13-0647 Illuminating: Friendly and joyful, an optimistic yellow offering the promise of a sunny day Pantone 18-6022 Leprechaun: Leprechaun is a wondrous green hue emblematic of the mythical imps featured in Irish folklore Pantone 18-2330 Fuchsia Fedora: Vivid Fuchsia Fedora is a flirtatious bold pink with allure Pantone 13-1716 Pale Rosette: An endearing and gentle romantic pink Pantone 17-1340 Adobe: Adobe is a warm and supportive sundried clay Pantone 18-1453 Fire Whirl: A vigorous red with a dynamic presence Pantone 19-3838 Rhodonite: Rhodonite is a balancing blue based purple that aids in achieving one’s highest potential Pantone 18-4221 Spring Lake: A quiet, restful midtone blue Pantone 19-1228 Root Beer: An herbal brown tone symbolic of the root bark of the sassafras tree

Color Cosmetic New Ingredients
Here are the latest new ingredients for color cosmetics from suppliers. For more information, contact the company directly.
 
BASF
Florham Park, NJ
Phone: (800) 962-7831
Email: [email protected]
Website: carecreations.basf.us
 
Mimiskin
INCI: Myristyl Myristate, Ceteareth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Suggested Use Levels: 5–10%
Applications: Primer, lip products, BB cream
Comments: Mimiskin is a biodegradable film former based on lipid particles that allows water and air to pass through while blocking out larger pollution particles. The product has a multitude of benefits including pollution protection, breathability, hydration, skin radiance, sensitive skin appropriate, and much more. The product can be used both in color cosmetics such as primer, BB creams, and lip products, as well as in skin care applications.
 
Corum Inc.
Taiwan
Phone: (562) 236-5700
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://www.corum.com.tw/
 
C-Pep Tricoll
INCI: Glycerin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Suggested Use Levels: 1–6%
Applications: Facial makeup-foundation/concealer/BB cream; Eye makeup­mascara/shadow/liner; Lip makeup-lipstick/gloss/liner; Blush/Cheek Color; Primer
Comments: Peptides are miniature fragment of skin protein; they are messengers signaling dermis for synthesizing the material necessary for the skin. C-Pep Tricoll is a synthetic lipopeptide, conjugating long chain fatty acid to improve skin penetration and skin affinity. C-Pep Tricoll contains three amino acids. It initiates the stimulation of collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis and strengthens the connective tissue. It helps the skin retain its natural firmness.
 
C-Pep Elastyl CC
INCI: Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene carbonate, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12
Suggested Use Levels: 1–6%
Applications: Facial makeup-foundation/concealer/BB cream; Eye makeup-mascara/shadow/liner; Lip makeup-lipstick/gloss/liner; Blush/Cheek Color; Primer
Comments: Peptides are miniature fragment of skin protein; they are messengers signaling dermis for synthesizing the material necessary for the skin. C-Pep Elastyl CC is a synthetic lipopeptide, conjugating long chain fatty acid to improve skin penetration and skin affinity. C-Pep Elastyl CC is the spring fragment of elastin; it stimulates fibroblasts in the elastin synthesis. The fatty acid linkage does not change the biological activity. It acts particularly on cutaneous suppleness.
 
VivGlow Opal
INCI: Cholesteryl isostearate, Cholesteryl chloride, Cholesteryl nonanoate, Silica
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5–99%
Applications: Facial makeup-foundation/concealer/BB cream; Eye makeup-mascara/shadow/liner; Lip makeup-lipstick/gloss/liner; Blush/Cheek Color; Primer
Comments: VivGlow Opal is a liquid crystal blend made up of cholesterol esters that adds visual impact as well as moisturizing capacity to cosmetic formulations, especially in clear system.
 
DSM Personal Care
Parsippany, NJ
Phone: (973) 257-8222
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.dsm.com/personal-care
 
Valvance Touch 210
INCI: Silica
Suggested Use Levels: 3%
Applications: Sunscreen, make-up, skin care
Comments: A sensory and visual modifier cosmetic ingredient that provides immediate matte finish and imparts greater comfort as well as cosmetic elegance to SPF formulations. Valvance Touch 210 possesses very strong absorption capacity for oil and water, significantly reducing residual oiliness, greasiness and stickiness of formulations.
 
Valvance Touch 250
INCI: Silica and methicone
Suggested Use Levels: 3%
Applications: Make-Up
Comments: In lipstick, award winning VALVANCE® Touch 250 outperforms the benchmark in more vibrant color, increased gloss, even pigment distribution and sharper contour. In powder it provides easy application, seamless glide and a soft velour finish for an even and flawless complexion with an impressive soft and smooth touch.
 
Beauactive
INCI: Hydroxystearic acid
Suggested Use Levels: Up to 1%
Applications: Sunscreen, Make-Up, Skin Care
Comments: Beauactive, a natural and oil soluble ingredient manufactured using green technology. It has proven efficacy of visibly reducing the appearance of conspicuous facial pores and age spots. It also is effective at improving cell protection by reducing the production of UV-induced sunburn cells.
 
Evonik
Essen, Germany
Phone: (804) 727-0700
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.evonik.com/personalcare
 
Rovisome Retinol Moist Pro
INCI: Water/Aqua; Pentylene Glycol; Lecithin; Alcohol; Retinol; Polysorbate 20; Potassium Phosphate; Tocopherol
Suggested Use Levels: 2–3%
Applications: BB Cream, Foundation
Comments: Rovisome Retinol Moist is a stabilized vitamin A and can effectively reduce the appearance of wrinkles without inducing skin irritation and without residuals such as BHA and BHT. It can help formulators focused on multifunctional Color to deliver skin care benefits without the irritation concerns of conventional retinol solutions.
 
Innospec Performance Chemicals
Salisbury, MD
Phone: (704) 633-8028
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.innospec.com
 
Dispersun DSP-OL100
INCI: Polyhydroxystearic acid
Suggested Use Levels: 1–2%
Applications: Color cosmetics
Comments: Dispersun DSP-OL100 Color Cosmetic is a natural dispersant for non-aqueous, oil-based systems. It is highly effective for inorganic pigments and titanium dioxide in color cosmetics. It dramatically decreases the viscosity of dispersions at dose rates of just a few percent, allowing higher concentrations of pigment to be used. This product is suitable for use in oil-based systems such as isododecane, castor oil, and alkyl benzoate.
 
InnoSil 905
INCI: Dimethicone
Suggested Use Levels: 5–10%
Applications: Color cosmetics
Comments: A cyclic-free composition used in facial cosmetics, (foundations primers, etc) at a usage level of 5 -10% to improve application spreading and provides a long application (“playtime”). InnoSil 905 can also be used as a carrier fluid for cosmetic and antiperspirant stick applications providing application glide and longer playtime. Can be used in combination with InnoSil 904 to control the desired application playtime.
 
Jeen International Corp
Fairfield, CT
Phone: (973) 439-1401
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.jeen.com
 
Oleosil LC 
INCI: C9-12 Alkane, Dimenthicone Crosspolymer-3
Suggested Use Levels: 5-20%
Applications: Suitable across all color cosmetic categories
Comments: Oleosil LC is a 90% naturally-derived silicone elastomer hybrid gel that can serve as a green substitute for D5. It enhances liquid, mousse, and stick foundations to a weightless, powder-like feel. Ideal for use across all color cosmetic categories.
 
Oleosil CC
INCI: C13-14 Alkane, Dimenthicone Crosspolymer-3
Suggested Use Levels: 5-20%
Applications: Suitable across all color cosmetic categories
Comments: Oleosil CC is a 90% naturally-derived silicone elastomer hybrid gel that serves as a greener option than traditional silicone elastomers. It enhances liquid, mousse, and stick foundations to a weightless, powder-like feel. Ideal for use across all color cosmetic categories.
 
Jeechem TDTM-MC
INCI: Tridecyl Trimellitate, Triisostearyl Citrate
Suggested Use Levels: 35–65%
Applications: Suitable across all color cosmetic categories
Comments: An ester that serves as an efficient pigment dispersant due to its ability to manage high load profiles, allowing grinds up to 80% grinds by weight. Can be used to eliminate pigment grinding, roller‐milling, or homogenization of bases when using micronized pigments, pearls, iron oxides, or mica.
 
Kobo Products
South Plainfield, NJ
Phone: (908) 757-0033
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.koboproducts.com
 
ASGP Superdispersible Natural Hybrid Treatment
INCI: Stearoyl Glutamic Acid (And) Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Suggested Use Levels: 0.1–50%
Applications: Emulsions, hot pours, powders, anhydrous gels
Comments: Kobo's new natural ASGP hybrid surface treatment renders powders hydrophobic and superdispersible. Pigments require only minimal energy and agitation during the grinding phase and disperse easily with quick and uniform color development. They give a creamy feel on the skin, promote better wear properties and aid in pressing powders.

Micro Powders, Inc.
Tarrytown, New York
Phone:  914.793.4058
Email:  [email protected]
Website:  MPIpersonalcare.com

Microsilk 422
INCI:  Synthetic Wax, Boron Nitride, Zinc Oxide
Applications:  Facial make-up-foundation/concealer/BB cream; Eye makeup-mascara/shadow/liner; Lip makeup-lipstick/glass/liner; Blush/Cheek Color; Primer
Comments:  Microsilk 422 is a unique composite fine powder of micronized synthetic wax, boron nitride and zinc oxide.  It is designed to be a suitable alternative to PTFE and PMMA, as well as lower cost option to boron nitride.  It’s high lubricity, slip and coverage make it perfect for all color cosmetic applications. Use level is 1-5%.
 
Seiwa Kasei Co., LTD.
Osaka, Japan
Phone: (172) 987-2626
Email: [email protected]
Website: https://seiwakasei.jp/en/
 
Botanical Lanolin
INCI: Glyceryl Diisostearate/Hydrogenated Rosinate
Suggested Use Levels: 1–70%
Applications: Lip makeup-lipstick/gloss/balm; Facial makeup-foundation/concealer/BB cream
Comments: Botanical Lanolin, Vistanol GDHR is a 100% plant-derived high viscosity oil. Compared to the well-known animal-derived lanolin, it has better luster and water retention. It is recommended for all kinds of color cosmetics as a plant origin alternative to animal product.