Features

Novel Ingredients Bolster Product Performance Across Skin Care

A look inside some of the newest formulations reveals a modern mix of components that improve efficacy and aesthetics. A new actives list follows the article.

Whether grown on the farm, in the wild or cultivated inside a lab, today’s hottest beauty ingredients provide efficacy and aesthetics that satisfy consumers who are willing to spend money—but are discerning about what they will ultimately purchase.


Tea Elixir Skin Resilience Activating Serum, the newest release from Fresh, is the result of 15 years of research into the skin care benefits of tea. 
According to The NPD Group’s Female Facial Skin Care Consumer Report, 55% of skincare consumers continue to look at ingredients first before choosing which brand to buy. As a result, the marketplace is flush with new formulations and a steady stream of revamped recipes that deliver improved performance or no longer have an ingredient that’s moved over to the “no” list.

The best cosmetic chemists are meeting these formulation challenges with an expanded toolkit. There is a wide collection of workhorse ingredients that never fail to deliver sought-after benefits—think hyaluronic acid for hydration—as well as a growing arsenal of novel materials like copper peptides, L-glutamine, kojic acid, polyglutamic acid, pro-retinol and tremella mushroom, among other so-called “emerging” and “safe-bet” skincare ingredients, according to Trendalytics.

In Spate’s Top Rising Ingredients Report unveiled earlier this year, top ingredients (by search volume) included green tea, tretinoin, peptide, chlorophyll, argireline, elastin, papaya enzyme, oat, ginseng and spironolactone. In addition, Spate labeled kigelia africana fruit extract, hexylresorcinol, silymarin, green aventurine, tocotrienols, argireline, ashwagandha, postbiotics, calcite and kudzu root emerging ingredients based on their year-on-year search growth.

Assessing how a hot new component will be embraced by consumers—and in which format—is another piece of the puzzle.

Suzy—an end-to-end consumer insights platform that integrates quantitative, qualitative and high-quality audiences into a connected research cloud—recently teamed up with Exploding Topics to explore how consumers feel about new beauty trends, including skincare products that put unique ingredients into the spotlight.

Take caffeine, for example. Exploding Topics says searches for “caffeine skin care” have increased 6.1x during the past five years. In a recent Suzy survey, 58% of respondents indicated an interest in beauty products with caffeine with only 7% said they weren’t interested in buying these skincare products. Consumers want caffeine skin care products to brighten their skin (56%), reduce the appearance of wrinkles (52%), reduce the appearance of dark circles (48%), and decrease puffiness (48%), according to Suzy.

Another opportunity for beauty brands: ingredients that help protect skin from blue light. In Suzy’s research, 43% of consumers don’t currently use any products to block blue light, and of those that do, the main tools are glasses and screen protectors—not lotions or serums. Nearly a third (29%) of consumers expressed interest in using skincare products to block blue light, according to Suzy.

Customer-Driven Skincare Insight

More than ever before, the product development process is enhanced with consumer insight. In addition to outside surveys and search data, savvy beauty brands connect with their fanbase to glean insight and feedback.

“Customers remain at the core of our product development process. After all, without them, we wouldn’t exist. So we ideate, formulate and iterate alongside our community, every step of the way,” Laura Burget, co-founder of Three Ships Beauty, told Happi.

Three Ships Beauty’s newest product is its Superfruit Lactic + Multifruit 8% AHA Exfoliating Mask. Out last month and formulated for all skin tones and types, the gentle exfoliating mask polishes the skin’s surface with rice powders while fruit-based AHAs brighten and remove dead skin cells. Lactic and fruit acids gently resurface and renew dull and congested skin, while aloe vera soothes and hydrates.

“When developing this mask, we wanted a mask that was easy to use, and provided instant results but was still gentle enough for even the most sensitive skin types. Usually, with exfoliating masks, they use either chemical or physical exfoliants so by having both types of exfoliants we are able to deliver maximum results,” Burget told Happi. “Because we use gentle natural sources of AHAs which are a blend of fruits (lemon, orange and apple), this mask is super gentle compared to masks that only use a single type of AHA since we are combining glycolic, lactic, citric malic and tartaric acids.”

The rice powder is spherical in shape, making it ideal for gentle exfoliation, according to Burget. 

“It is also made of a softer material and is a bigger particle size to minimize irritation and prevent aggressive over-exfoliation that many will experience when using more abrasive scrubs—like walnut shells that many other products use,” she concluded.

Perennial Anti-Aging Performers

When it comes to performance, retinol remains a driver in skincare. Brands continue to roll out new formulations that harness the benefits with fewer tradeoffs, like irritation.

Kiehl’s newest formulation, Retinol Fast Release Wrinkle-Reducing Night Serum, is designed for consumers seeking quick, visible reduction in fine lines, wrinkles and deep wrinkles.

Fast Release Wrinkle-Reducing 0.3% Retinol Night Serum is packaged in a dual-sided component that allows consumers to freshly activate their formula by releasing a pure retinol powder capsule into an ultra-lightweight serum base. This process accelerates skin renewal and rapidly brings fresh new skin cells to the surface for a more revitalized, youthful-looking complexion, according to the brand.

“With this packaging and formula release method, retinol is preserved and protected from degradation to ensure optimal potency and efficacy from the very first use. This enables the formula to be rapidly delivered into the skin and accelerate skin surface renewal and in turn expedites visible results,” Kiehl’s Global Scientific Director Dr. Nancy Ilaya, PhD said in a statement when the serum was released in July.

In a clinical product study, skin showed visible improvement in the appearance of fine lines in just five days, as well as a reduction in deep wrinkles and refined texture after two weeks of nightly use, according to Kiehl’s. In an 8-week consumer perception study, 100% of participants visibly demonstrated a reduction in wrinkles, including deep-set and stubborn wrinkles.

Dr. Tina Alster’s The A Method Pearls of Retinol uses a special retinol delivery system that features micro-encapsulated “pearls” of all-trans retinol suspended in a hydrating formula. The pearls hold micro-encapsulated retinol stable until mixed with the serum base, which is pumped through a dispenser. This, according to the brand, also creates a micro-dosing scenario that can help minimize irritation and aid in better moisture balance for improved results after consistent nightly use. The serum base features a mixture of ingredients like hyaluronic acid, panthenol, 24K gold and natural extracts.

Like retinol, niacinamide remains a popular ingredient in skin care, and there appear to be opportunities for new products that highlight this material. In a recent Suzy survey, 42% of respondents said they don’t use niacinamide products yet. And while 35% of consumers said they were interested in trying serums, a larger portion of consumers said they wanted to add niacinamide to their body care routine, with 42% interested in body lotions.

Skincare brand Medicube, which is now available on Amazon, offers Red Clearing Body Lotion which is formulated with niacinamide as well as hyaluronic acid and shea butter to tone and soften skin with anti-inflammatory properties while minimizing the appearance of pores.

Iris&Romeo has a new skin plumping serum spray that teams niacinamide with two other high-profile components. The indie brand’s new Reset Hyaluronic Acid + Niacinamide Serum Spray is formulated with four different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid and ceramides.

Dermadoctor rolled out Calm Cool + Collection Ceramide C Ultra Rich Moisturizing Cream, which is said to moisturize, firm, rejuvenate and brighten the complexion of all skin types, even those with sensitive, rosacea-prone, or eczema-prone skin. Vitamin C ester, enriched with vitamin E and ferulic acid boosters, helps protect against free-radical damage, even skin tone and leaves skin feeling more elastic, smoother, softer and firmer, according to the brand. Meanwhile, an advanced complex of ceramides and essential lipids hydrate, nourish and repair.

Clinique launched Smart Clinical Repair, an ultra-nourishing moisturizer. The formula contains CL1870 Peptide Complex, which boosts skin’s natural collagen to help fortify the dermal structure, leaving skin feeling stronger and looking smoother. CL1870 Peptide Complex is described as a peptide blend with acetyl hexapeptide-8, a neuropeptide that helps to increase natural collagen production; palmitoyl tripeptide-1/palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, signaling peptides that work synergistically to help boost natural collagen production; whey protein; caffeine and algae extract. Additional components include hyaluronic acid, soybean seed extract (which is rich in lysophosphaditic acid) and shea butter. Clinique created two iterations of Smart Clinical Repair; a denser cream for those with drier skin and a lightweight cream for all skin types (1,2,3,4).

Chemists at Indeed Labs line have tapped into XEP-018, a biomimetic peptide, which is found in its Snoxin II Facial Line & Wrinkle Fighting Serum.

“At Indeed Labs, we are dedicated to continuously adapting technological advances in peptide technology to advance our products. XEP-018 represents the next generation of smart molecules. Highly potent and safe, it mimics the natural conopeptide from venomous marine cone snail (Conus consors) and acts as an instant line relaxer, giving the skin a smooth appearance,” Dimitra Davidson, president and COO of Indeed Labs, told Happi.

Indeed also relies on mainstays like hyaluronic acid (HA), which works with PatchH20 technology in its Hydraluron Moisture Jelly. The high molecular weight of HA allows the moisturizer to support the skin barrier with instant and long-lasting hydration. PatchH20 is a molecular network loaded with a moisturizing complex, which is gradually released into the heart of the stratum corneum to rebalance the skin’s optimal moisture level. On the surface of the skin, the novel combination of hyaluronic acid, alginate and a natural glucan form a molecular mesh, similar to a protective film reducing water evaporation, according to the brand.

“For us, the most important criteria in the selection of raw materials and ingredients are safety and effectiveness,” Davidson told Happi.

Products that deliver moisture will always have a need in skin care, and brands are seeking components that deliver. 

Truly Beauty’s new Cake Maker products contain polyglutamic acid (PGA), a humectant that holds five times more moisture than hyaluronic acid. The brand is also using PGA in products designed for use beyond the face, like its Cake Maker Tightening Butt & Leg Cream and Cake Maker Tightening Butt & Leg Polish, both of which also contain ceramides. 

Murad recently added Deep Relief Acne Treatment, a leave-on treatment for blind pimple discomfort. The treatment has actives and skin-healing ingredients and an invisible film-forming polymer that creates a second skin to hold the actives in place longer on the skin. The formulation contains 2% salicylic acid; amino acid technology that targets irritation-causing bacteria; and phytosteroid. It has been clinically proven to reduce discomfort associated with deep acne as it clears, according to the brand.

Ayurvedic Ingredients for Acne

Codex Beauty is taking a different tact to treat acne. It recently rolled out its Shaant Collection, which helps treat oily, acne-prone skin by using biotech fermented actives from ayurvedic plants and a patented “ShaantComplex” to help skin reduce sebum production, clear and shrink pores, naturally exfoliate and encourage skin turnover to prevent breakouts. The range was formulated in partnership with Dr. Raja Sivamani, an integrative dermatologist and certified Ayurvedic practitioner who takes a holistic approach to skin issues by merging modern science and western medicine.

According to Codex Beauty Labs Founder Dr. Barb Paldus, the development process began by mining the IMPPAT (Indian Medicinal Plants, Phytochemistry and Therapeutics) database for ideas on how to create a new approach.

“Once Codex Beauty Labs had a list of candidate plants, we searched the literature for their effect on keratinocytes and acne in general,” she told Happi.

From there, Codex performed gene expression analysis to understand the function of each of the selected actives, and any synergistic effects of the complex itself.

“With promising results, we formulated a collection where each product would have a specific function, and the overall regimen could be tailored for oily skin, mildly acneic skin, and moderately acneic skin,” Paldus said.

The patent-pending ShaantComplex comprises four ingredients, each having their own function:
  • Centella asiatica (also called Gotu Kol), a perennial plant that grows in temperate and tropical swampy areas all over the world. In Ayurveda, it is used as an adaptogenic herb believed to strengthen mental acuity, heal wounds and rejuvenate skin. In addition to its antibacterial properties, it helps reduce redness, improves skin resilience and moisturize. This is soothing irritated, acne-prone skin and helping to recover from an outbreak, according to Paldus.
  • Pogostemon cablin, more commonly called patchouli, is a bushy perennial herb native to Southeast Asia through northern India that is related to mint, lavender and sage. In Ayurveda, patchouli oil has been used to treat dermatitis, acne, eczema and dry skin. Paldus said the abundance of bio-actives like patchoulol, patchoulenes, and pogostol provide therapeutic calming effects by enhancing homeostasis via the endocannabinoid CB2 receptor system. 
  • Tetraselmis chui is an intensely green, unicellular, marine microalgae. It can be very efficiently manufactured in a bioreactor, therefore making it an incredibly sustainable biotech ingredient, said Paldus. The extract contains linoleic, palmitic and oleic acids. It has anti-inflammatory properties, prevents skin irritation and regulates the secretion of sebum, which is critical to preventing clogged pores.
  • Fucus spiralis—more commonly known as called spiral wrack—is an olive brown alga seaweed that grows attached to rocks in the coastal regions of Europe and North America. In Ayurveda, acne is said to be an imbalance of the kapha and pitta doshas, which lead to clogged pores and inflammation. Seaweeds are considered an “energetic food—salty astringent, cold and sweet—that helps reduce this pitta and kapha imbalance,” said Paldus. Fucus contains skin beneficial minerals as well as anti-inflammatory polysaccharides (called fucoidans) that help comfort irritated, acne-prone skin.

Codex Beauty Shaant Collection uses biotech fermented actives from ayurvedic plants and a patented  complex to help skin reduce sebum production, clear and shrink pores, naturally exfoliate and encourage skin turnover to prevent breakouts. Thee development process began by mining the IMPPAT (Indian Medicinal Plants, Phytochemistry and Therapeutics) database.

Clinique’s Smart Clinical Repair moisturizer contains CL1870 Peptide Complex.
In addition, ShaantComplex is supplemented by other Ayurvedic plant or fruit extracts that enhance a product’s specific performance. For example, Shaant Balancing Foaming Cleanser contains with glycolipids and tulsi. Shaant Refining Toner is formulated with 2% gluconolactone (PHA), neem and witch hazel. Shaant Balancing Oil Control Cream contains 1% bakuchiol, ashwagandha and black-jack. Lastly, the range’s multi-tasking clay mask, designed to reduce oiliness and appearance of redness, contains 2% bentonite, turmeric and starches from rice and corn.

Paldus told Happi that there will be new OTC products launching later in the year as a follow up to the four Shaant SKUs that are available now.

Ameva is a new brand harnessing the benefits of mevalonic acid, a basic building block that cells transform into CoQ10, squalene, vitamin K, retinol and lipids—elements critical to skin repair and renewal, according to brand Co-Founders Deepak Dugar and Emmanuel Rey.

“By adding mevalonic acid into our formulations, it allows the skin cells to create these molecules by its natural biological process. The result on the skin is increased hydration, decrease in fine lines and wrinkles, as well as a reduction in UV spots and red spots,” said Dugar.

According to Rey, mevalonic acid is also extremely gently on the skin, unlike other active ingredients that claim similar results. That means users can continue to wear products containing mevalonic acid while in direct sunlight, without fear of skin irritation or adverse reactions, Rey insisted.

Company officials say they are planning a full suite of skin care products featuring mevalonic acid, along with other “efficacious, plant-based active ingredients that complement it.”

Spilling Tea

The newest release from Fresh is the result of 15 years of research into the skin care benefits of tea. Fresh says its new Tea Elixir Skin Resilience Activating Serum is scientifically proven to boost skin’s resilience and resistance to life stressors that lead to signs of aging. The result? Smooth skin with minimized lines, a visible glow and more bounce.

According to Fresh, its scientists captured the resilient properties of the Mauritius tea plant in its Adaptive Phytocompound Tea (APT) Technology—an exclusive ingredient concentrated in citrate and polyphenols that works to increase skin’s bioenergetic systems and deliver antioxidant protection. The extraction process breaks down the tea leave’s cell membranes and filtrates the low molecular weight compounds to produce the final material, which is exclusive to the brand. The new serum is also enriched with niacinamide to refine the look of pores; 5kDA hyaluronic acid to hydrate and minimize visible lines; ceramide III to strengthen the skin’s barrier; and ocean kelp to improve texture.

Dark Spot Solutions

Leading brands are using novel ingredient blends in new solutions for dark spots.

Obagi Clinical says its new Dark Spot Disruptor Discoloration Correcting Serum is clinically proven to improve skin discoloration, fade dark spots and promote skin turnover while moisturizing at the same time. The core technology combines bakuchiol, polyglutamic acid and a blend of five different forms of hyaluronic acids, including low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid fragments.

PCA Skin’s Pigment Gel Pro contains SynerPro Complex, which includes hexylresorcinol, purified licorice root extract, tranexamic acid and 4-butylresorcinol. This targeted dark spot solution visibly reduces the appearance of discoloration, including dark spots, brown patches, age spots, skin yellowing and uneven skin tone, according to PCA. The product was evaluated in a clinical study for its effects on the skin when applied twice daily over 16 weeks. It was tested on 48 female participants between the ages of 18 and 86 with Fitzpatrick types I-VI. After 4 weeks, 74% of people saw a reduction in discoloration, according to the brand.

K-Beauty and J-Beauty ingredients


Laneige’s upgraded Water Bank Collection contains Blue Hyaluronic Acid.
Beauty brands from Asia are known for bringing new formats and novel ingredients to US skincare consumers.

Peach Slices’ Redness Relief approaches redness in layers—whether that redness stems from a compromised skin barrier, inflammation in the epidermis or redness from a more holistic issue like rosacea. The formulas are powered by Korean skin care innovations in a novel system that features green algae, panthenol and 10% azelaic acid alongside hydrators and “skin barrier supporters,” according to the K-beauty brand.

Newly launched in the US is the Shikō Beauty Collective. This J-beauty purveyor is home to several brands from Seiso JBeauty, which is centered on ceramide science technology, to Dassai Beauty, which offers a facial mask infused with Dassai Sake Lee Essence. Drawn from the lees produced during the brewing process of premium Junmai-Daiginjo Dassai 23 sake, the essence is described as a rich formula of 16 natural amino acids, including glutamic acid, aspartic acid, leucine, arginine, alanine and valine. Natural amino acids are widely used as a skin moisturizer and are the primary component of skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF), according to Shikō, which is part of Mitsui & Co.

Novel and New(ish)

In addition to new launches, novel components can also inspire reboots of popular products. Glow Recipe, for example, shelved its watermelon sleep mask—its best-selling mask and very first product (debuting in 2018). As a replacement, the K-beauty brand recently unveiled new  Watermelon Glow AHA Night Treatment. This “next-generation” overnight resurfacing treatment is formulated with new exfoliation technology, a specifically pH-balanced, concentrated 2.5% AHA Complex (glycolic acid and lactic acid) that Glow Recipe says is proven to be just as powerful and efficacious as a traditional 10% glycolic acid. In addition, seven weights of hyaluronic acid in the new treatment provide long-lasting hydration, while niacinamide and quinoa peptides brighten and firm skin. And as its name implies, this new treatment contains antioxidant-rich watermelon extract, too.

Laneige is touting its newly reformulated Water Bank Collection. The upgraded formulas feature the brand’s new proprietary ingredient, Blue Hyaluronic Acid. Blue HA features molecules that are 2000 times smaller than the hyaluronic acid in the previous iteration, according to the K-beauty brand, which is owned by Amorepacific.

Whether the goal is a new launch or a reformulation, it all begins with a robust toolkit. 

NEW INGREDIENTS FOR SKIN CARE

Below is a list of new ingredients for skin care formulations that are available from industry suppliers. For more information on the products listed, please contact each company directly.

• DSM Personal Care

Parsippany, NJ
Website: dsm.com/personal-care

Quali B – Vitamin B12
INCI: Cyanocobalamin
Comments: Award winning biotech pink Vitamin B for sensitive and fatigued skin produced by non-GMO bacterial fermentation. Reduces skin barrier damage and helps maintain a healthy skin appearance, calming sensitive skin for a more vibrant appearance. It’s water soluble and preservative free, suitable for sensitive skin. Used at 0.001-0.1% in Skin & Hair Care – and it turns formulations pink! China listed, Vegan and Halal certified, 67.8% natural origin content according to ISO16128.

Pepha Tight CB
INCI: (active): Algae Extract, Pullulan)
Comments: For superior skin tightening and firmness. Marine derived from microalgae and high performing polysaccharides and produced via fermentation process. Instant perceptible tightening effect. Anti-wrinkle; stimulates formation of collagen I and fibroblast proliferation. Provides a long-term skin firming benefit and is anti-pollution, protecting against urban dust. It’s water soluble and preservative free with a 1-5% use level for Skin. China listed, Vegan and Halal certified, 100% natural origin content according to ISO16128.

Alpaflor Alp Sebum CB
INCI: (active): Epilobium Fleischeri / Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract
Comments: Organic prebiotic for visible care of oily skin. A plant extract that’s organically cultivated with Fair Trade certification. Sebum reduction, visibly mattifies skin, reduces pore size and sebum spot number, and it reduces porphyrins, the bio markers of acne. It’s water soluble and preservative free with a 1-3% use level for Skin & Scalp. China listed, Vegan, Halal, Eco Cert COSMOS and Nature certified with a 100% natural origin content according to ISO16128.

• Koster Keunen        

Watertown, CT
Website: kosterkeunen.com

Kester Wax K-59
INCI: Stearyl Stearate
Comments: Kester Wax K-59 from Koster Keunen is a natural, plant-based ester that provides opacity, emolliency and rich body in emulsions. Add this vegan wax ester into oil-in-water emulsions for a richer look and feel without building any significant viscosity. Chemists can control opacity and plush richness without affecting thickness.

• Laboratory Skin Care Inc.

Hayward, CA
Website: www.lscbioactives.com

Hydroxysomes Adenosine, Hydroxysomes Retinal, Hydroxysomes Resveratrol
INCI: Adensosine Hydroxyapatite, Retinaldehyde Hydroxyapatite, Resveratrol Hydroxyapatite
Comments: Hydroxysomes are the newest, most advanced dermal delivery platform made of calcium and inorganic phosphate (non-nano) particles. For innovative actives to penetrate into the skin and remain stable, they require an effective dermal delivery system.  Hydroxysomes sustained release stimulates skin cells to produce collagen and elastin, activate skin cell regeneration by accelerating barrier recovery, and improve firmness, cellular cohesion and hydration. Helps to repair damaged skin, improve skin integrity, increase skin flexibility and rejuvenation, and reduce appearance of fine lines & wrinkles. With Hydroxysomes there are no penetration enhancers.

• LipoTrue Inc.

Website: www.lipotrue.com

Telessence Breeztel
Comments: Emostress accelerates biological aging through the shortening of telomeres and the damage caused by the release of cortisol and Substance P (SP). Telessence Breeztel is a marine ferment from a microorganism collected from the sea breeze near the isle of Tonga (Fiji), that helps to blow Emostress away.

Telessence Telmeric
Comments: All we need in life is balance, but the skin is constantly exposed to temperature changes from the environment (seasons, heat waves) or due to modern life (air conditioners, hair dryers). Envirostress slowly weakens skin protection, accelerating skin aging. Telessence Telmeric is a biomimetic, both structurally and functionally, of the turmeric spice (Curcuma longa). Turmeric is known to enhance skin resilience against Envirostress.

Telessence Mitelion
Comments: Phystress or physical stress and fatigue is linked with cellular exhaustion, leading to mitochondrial dysfunction, oxidative stress and telomere shortening (biological aging). Telessence Mitelion is an ingredient obtained from bilberry fruit and rosemary leaves. It keeps mitochondria fit to tackle Phystress.

• Micro Powders, Inc.

Tarrytown, NY
Email: [email protected]
Website: micropowders.com

Ecosoft 627S
INCI:   Polylactic Acid
Percent Usage:  1-10%
Applications: Lotions including skin treatments and anti-age, creams, masks, serums, oils, gels, powdered concentrates, anhydrous sticks, and butters
Comments: Ecosoft 627S is a spherical naturally derived ultrafine powder made from bio-fermented corn sugars. This sustainable powder is compostable and imparts high slip with extremely silky silicone-like aesthetics. The spherical shape provides excellent soft focus performance, including line filling, optical blurring, and a natural finish on the skin.

• Silab

France
Website: www.silab.fr

Regenixir
INCI: Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Comments: Regenixir
is a regenerating anti-aging active ingredient of biotechnological origin. By restoring the capacity of aged fibroblasts to interact with their environment, it enables a transversal action on the interconnectivity of the cutaneous, vascular and immune systems, weakened during aging. The quality of the skin is improved: wrinkles and under-eye circles are reduced, vascularization defects are attenuated and the complexion radiance is revived. With its global action, Regenixir favors the rapid regeneration of mature skin.

Adaptonyl
INCI: Water & Withania Somnifera Root Extract
Comments: Obtained from ashwagandha, an Ayurvedic plant with adaptogenic properties, Adaptonyl is a natural anti-stress active ingredient capable of acting on all the factors of cutaneous exposome (environmental and lifestyle-related aggressions). Faced with their damaging effects on the epidermis and dermis, it neutralizes cell stress and restores their metabolism. The skin quality is improved as of 14 days: smoothed cutaneous microrelief, refined skin grain, and enhanced complexion radiance. Adaptonyl is recommended in all protective care products.

Apioskin
INCI: Water & Spirodela Polyrhiza Extract
Comments: Apioskin is a natural plumping active ingredient with outstanding hydrating properties, derived from the giant duckweed (Spirodela polyrhiza). Purified in apiogalacturonans, giving it its highly hygroscopic capacity (twice higher than hyaluronic acid), Apioskin takes up and retains water, from the stratum corneum to the upper dermis. It provides a flash and long-lasting hydration, superficially and in depth. With its smoothing, plumping and radiance-boosting effects, Apioskin is the ideal solution for dehydrated skin.

• Tri-K Industries, Inc.

Denville, NJ
Website: www.tri-k.com

Fision HydraTress
INCI: Water (and) Panthenol (and) Hydrolyzed Quinoa (and) Glycerin (and) Pisum Sativum (Pea) Seed Extract (and) 1,2-Hexanediol (and) Sodium Hyaluronate
Comments: Fision HydraTress delivers balanced moisture protection for 24-hour frizz control in any environment, on various hair types. This unique product instantly improves shine, for softer ends and enhances hair conditioning while detangling for increased manageability. Featuring key ingredients, quinoa protein, pea peptide, and hyaluronic acid. Our studies show that Fision HydraTress significantly decreases frizz in any environment while demonstrating improved sensory attributes on a single application. This optimized solution has an NOI of 0.90.

CollaPlant Z NPNF
INCI: Water (and) Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (and) Rice Amino Acids (and) Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract (and) Proline
Comments: CollaPlant Z NPNF is uniquely designed to be a vegetable alternative to mimic the amino acid composition and sensory profile of animal-based Hydrolyzed Collagen. A collagen is a vital tool that provides moisturization, which is the key element in the fight against aging. Vegan products are sought after by consumers in not only food but also in beauty & personal care.

NaturePep Ganoderma
INCI: Water (and) Hydrolyzed Ganoderma Lucidum (Mushroom) Extract
Comments: NaturePep Ganoderma uses TRI-K’s renowned natural peptide technology, to leverage the Ganoderma mushroom, known to be used in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). This first-of-its-kind Ganoderma mushroom peptide has been shown to reduce crow’s feet wrinkles and roughness, addressing the periorbital area of the face where the first signs of aging can appear. In addition, NaturePep Ganoderma repairs dermal degradation prevents skin oxidative and cellular damage, and decreases melanin concentration on dark spots.

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