Looking Inward

Nutritional supplements complement today’s personal care regimens.

Melissa Meisel
Associate Editor

It’s as simple as twist, grab and pop—a one-stop step to improve your health and overall appearance. Every day, almost half (56%) of U.S. adults use nutritional supplements, according to market research firm Packaged Facts, Rockville, MD. About three-fifths of these consumers—or 34%—use supplements once a day, while another 7% use vitamins more than once daily. So, in an economy where consumers are picking and choosing personal care essentials due to slim wallets, are marketers looking to tap this segment with new products promising beauty from the inside out?

The answer is a resounding yes! In fact, retail sales within the U.S. consumer packaged goods health and wellness industry rose 9% last year to exceed $112 billion, according to Natural Marketing Institute (NMI), Harleysville, PA. This figure includes sales across all retail and direct-to-consumer channels.

“NMI research clearly shows that the current economic downturn is changing consumer behavior on many levels, including spending related to health and wellness,” according to NMI president Maryellen Molyneaux. “So while sales in each category continue to grow, consumers are becoming more discerning and are looking for real value in their purchases and not just the perceived value. This shift in behavior will impact manufacturers and retailers not just short-term but also in the future.”

Furthermore, sales of herbal dietary supplements in the U.S. reached $4.8 billion in 2008, according to a report in HerbalGram, the quarterly journal of the American Botanical Council (ABC). Total herb supplement sales increased nearly 1% over 2007, according to data came from multiple market research firms, including Information Resources Inc. (IRI), Nutrition Business Journal and SPINS.

“There is vast opportunity for innovative herbal products to move outside the category…with the potential of attracting new shopper segments,” said Mary Ellen Lynch, SPINS director of consumer insights and a co-author of the report.

A Growing Marketplace

Looking and feeling your best is a top priority in the beauty supplement market, noted Kimberly Cooper, chief beauty officer, Glowelle, Nestlé USA, Glendale, CA. In fact, the link between diet and overall appearance and wellness has become increasingly apparent in the personal care segment.

“Consumers want their diet to have a positive effect on both their outer beauty and inner health,” she said. “An important key to healthy, radiant skin is good nutrition.” As a result, Ms. Cooper co-created Glowelle, a dietary supplement packed with antioxidants from vitamins, phyto-nutrients, botanical and fruit extracts to fortify outer layers of the epidermis.

Citrus extracts are noteworthy in this new gum from Origins.

Vitamins are indeed a “must-have” feature for nutritional beauty supplements, according to Scott-Vincent Borba, chief executive officer and founder of Borba, Woodland Hills, CA.

“The top nutritional ingredients in beautifying supplements consist of the obvious vitamins your body needs like A, C, and E, and some not-so-obvious ingredients like natural botanical extracts that contain antioxidants, collagen and protein,” he told Happi.

When Mr. Borba started his company, he decided to focus on fruits that have the strongest antioxidant power: acai berry, noni berry, gogi fruit, guanabana fruit, lychee fruit and pomegranate.

“The key that I’ve found is to make the ingredients bio-available so that our bodies can put them to work right away,” he said.

Borba’s latest rollout is an anti-aging skin care confection, DeLuscious Vitamin-Enhanced Cookies.A co-branded effort with a Los Angeles-based bakery called DeLuscious Cookies + Milk, these delectable desserts might taste sinful, yet they boast sweet skin care ingredients that can help keep one’s complexion looking flawless, according to the company.Staying true to Borba’s mantra of “beauty from the inside out,” the vitamin-enhanced cookies are infused with the brand’s signature anti-aging ingredient, acai.

Turning back the clock is a common request of beauty nutraceuticals. Antioxidants, peptides and hyaluronic acid have been shown to be clinically effective in beauty treatments by way of nutritional supplements, noted Gene Mayne, Vitivia, JSJ Pharmaceuticals, Charleston, SC. However, active ingredients in their traditional form are somewhat limiting without absorption and dermal penetration technologies, he added.

To enhance clinical results, Mr. Mayne’s company has incorporated various patents, such as microsponge technology, allowing for the controlled and extended release of ingredients that target the skin. For example, Vitivia’s Pro:Vitamin A15 contains pure vitamin A at 0.15%. According to the company, the retinol within the supplement assists in the regeneration of healthy skin cells and helps maintain the presence of collagen; refines pores, smoothes fine lines and reveals more youthful looking skin and is also known to normalize activity of sebaceous glands.

A growing body of nutritional research shows antioxidants, fatty acids, vitamins and minerals do have a direct benefit in protecting the skin from accelerated aging, said Paula Simpson, executive director, Isocell North America Inc., the formulator for GliSODin Skin Nutrients, Professional Nutricosmetics. Developed by Isocell Laboratories, GliSODin is a non-genetically modified melon extract grown in the south of France, which is naturally rich in superoxide dismutase (SOD), according to the company.

Lip Products Aim to Slim and Trim While Adding a Smattering of Glamour For those looking to whittle their waistlines while they plump up their kissers, Purple Lab’s latest rollout, Huge Lips, Skinny Hips lipgloss, aims to deliver.According to the company, the lip product offering “non-invasive” access to the lips and hips women have always dreamed about in six high-gloss, paraben-free hues. Extending beyond the boundaries of traditional lipgloss, Huge Lips, Skinny Hips’ formula features hoodia gordoni extract, which is derived from the cactus-like plant indigenous to South Africa and Namibia and has been used for centuries for its appetite-suppressing benefits. The formulation also includes vitamin B3 to stimulate blood flow to the lip surface, diminishing the appearance of wrinkles around the mouth and comfortably creating a plumping effect. Other lip-conditioning ingredients include natural lipids that bind water to the skin, as well as meadowfoam to moisturize to perfection and lemon peel oil to offer instant cooling. “Huge Lips, Skinny Hips is the answer to every girl’s beauty dreams—sophisticated lip color, plumping performance and a natural way to curb those carb cravings,” says Karen Robinovitz, founder of Purple Lab, New York, NY. “It’s the perfect secret weapon for surviving cocktail parties without succumbing to all the hors d’oeuvres.” Another new product on the market, Burner Balm, is a lip moisturizer that also contains hoodia as well as chromium picolinate and green tea extract for increased energy and metabolism. It recently debuted on NBC’s “The Today Show” to great acclaim. The show’s hosts, Kathie Lee Gifford and Hoda Kotb, tried Burner Balm on air.Ms. Gifford excitedly reported, “We both said that we did not eat as much.I gave away half my lunch yesterday.” Burner Balm is currently available in five flavors: original, acai berry, strawberry, vanilla and pomegranate. The company is planning a future rollout of two more powerful balms, which have increased levels of the active ingredients Energy-X (lemon lime) and Performance-X (orange).

“The consumer is seeking a product to help protect their skin from environmental stressors while beautifying their complexion,” said Ms. Simpson. “With the hectic lifestyles we lead, it is difficult to attain the recommended dietary intakes on a daily basis. And although the consumer aims to get the most from their diet, a nutricosmetic supplement will ensure all critical nutrients are provided daily to promote healthy skin, hair and nails.”

Suzanne Somers of “Three’s Company” fame is jumping in on the nutraceutical trend with Suzanne Essentials Sip of Sunshine, an anti-aging daily wellness drink powered by Vitamin D (the sunshine vitamin), selenium and superoxide dismutase. This new strawberry/lemonade flavored drink reportedly boosts the immune system as well as supply powerful antioxidants to protect against free radical damage.

Turn Back the Clock

Aloe is another hot ingredient in nutritional products. Sustainable Youth Technologies, a skin care line based in New York, NY, sells a nutritional supplement to set off the effects of its anti-aging creams and serums.

Superfruits like pomegranate (below) are here to stay in the nutraceutical category.

“Whether for treating a sun burn or moisturizing skin, aloe has long been known to provide exemplary benefits,” said Denise DeBaun, president and chief executive officer of Sustainable Youth Technologies, New York, NY. “We transformed this all-important skin care ingredient into an active that is highly efficacious, all natural and convenient. Thus, Alasta [the brand’s aloe formulation] was developed as a powder that could be used in a variety of formats, including a supplement.” Sustainable Youth’s Elastifirm Supplement consists only of Alasta and a few other ingredients that naturally preserve the product, noted Ms. DeBaun. “We also believe that the balance of ingredients in a supplement should play a critical role or not be present at all.”

Finally, probiotics are all the rage this season. Studies show that these digestion-friendly ingredients taken internally can have a beneficial impact upon skin health and appearance. Now, an emerging body of clinical research is demonstrating that topical application of probiotics can also have significant benefits by bringing balance to the microflora naturally found on the skin.As a result, probiotics are gaining ground as the next big thing in skin care.

SK1N Probiotic Systems—a new skin care sysytem—blends probiotic actives with prebiotic nutrients in a revolutionary proprietary formula, according to the company.Combined with all natural ingredients, the products stimulate cellular energy, limit the production of free radicals, improve collagen and help reverse the conditions that cause skin irritation, providing benefits ranging from anti-aging to anti-acne, according to the Scottsdale, AZ-based skin care company.

New for 2009

Whether brightening the skin or adding shine to lackluster locks, today’s nutritional products aim to keep up with their personal care competitors in the health and beauty aisle.

For example, hair care is a rising category in the nutritional supplements domain. One popular all-natural brand of hair thinning supplements, Viviscal, is making its debut in the U.S. market after signing a multi-million dollar distribution deal with New York pharmacy chain Duane Reade, which will stock the product at more than 250 locations.

The product uses a proprietary ingredient called AminoMar C, a marine complex which is said to effectively nourish hair follicles, strengthen and encourage the growth of existing hair, promote the growth of weaker locks and make your hair look more vibrant overall.

The brand recently expanded the range with Viviscal Man, which contains flax seed, which is said to reduce DHT inhibitors, as well as zinc, an essential mineral for healthy tresses.

And, for some mood-boosting capabilities, Origins’ new Gloomaway gumballs freshen breath and brighten dispositions, according to the company. The uplifting, all-natural citrus flavors of grapefruit and orange sparkle on the tongue, helping soothe and balance nerves. The SKU complements a full range of citrus-infused Gloomaway bath and body products for Summer 2009.

What’s Next for Nutraceuticals

The market for nutritional supplements is estimated to reach $8.5 billion in the U.S. by 2012, according to Packaged Facts. Industry insiders agree that beauty nutraceuticals complementing personal care regimens is a genre here to stay.

“The supplement market has developed over time to focus on specific issues such as beauty, and I would expect that we will see developments in the type of product format that the beauty ingredient is used within,” said Anna Ibbotson, industry manager, chemicals and materials practice, Kline, Oxford, UK. “For example, moving from supplements into functional foods and drinks—although the product format needs to be well chosen to complement the theme of beauty from within.”

“Beauty from the inside out leads new product development in food and beverage and the trend is expected to keep growing,” agreed Ms. Cooper at Glowelle. The trend is predicted to grow across all forms including: beverages, pills, foods, oils and powders as well as across numerous distribution channels such as grocery stores, pharmacies, department stores and online.

Ms. DeBaun of Sustainable Youth predicts two key trends will emerge in the category: target areas will broaden and formats will become more diverse.

“Beauty nutraceuticals will move beyond facial skin care and the treatment of cellulite and will begin to address other areas of the body, including sagging skin around the arms, legs and tummy. Consumers will also be presented with a wider variety of formats beyond the standard pill, including beauty foods such as gum, bars and chocolate and beauty beverages like powders for hot and cold drinks, ready-to-drink teas, juices and sodas. However, consumers will always be looking for innovation, proprietary ingredients and proven results,” she told Happi.

Ultimately, a healthy body is a beautiful one, according to Ms. Simpson at GLiSODin.

“We assimilate nutrients from food/supplements and use it for growth and maintenance. The skin is the largest organ in the body and therefore puts strenuous demands on the body for optimal growth and repair. As we are increasingly exposed to pollutants through diet and our environment.”
She continued, “I believe that nutraceutical beauty will become a foundation to protect ourselves from accelerated aging and maximizing our natural beauty. On a daily basis, to attain all the best skin nutrients from diet alone is extremely difficult.

A true nutricosmetic works along with a healthy lifestyle to optimize your skin’shealth and beauty from within the body.”

Superfoods Nourish with Antioxidant Benefits C onsumers can look to the market basket for the next way to visibly improve their skin, hair, nails and overallhealth. According to Glowelle scientist Dr. Susan Beck, for optimal skin health, the body needs the right combination of antioxidants in the right amounts. Antioxidants work synergistically to help protect the health and vitality of the skin. Extracts, anyone? The top antioxidants for skin include: Beta Carotene: Protects against the harmful effects of free radicals, promoting an even skin tone. Supplementation with beta carotene has been shown to increase the level of this important nutrient in the skin. Lycopene: Sun exposure destroys more of the lycopene in skin than the beta-carotene. That could be exactly why lycopene is there—it takes the hit from free radicals generated by sun exposure. Lutein: Human studies have shown that lutein helps fight the signs of aging by reducing redness and photoaging. Not only that, it also hydrates the skin and boosts skin lipid levels. Vitamins C & E: Vitamin C is essential for the production of collagen: those long, strong fibers that give your skin its structure and shape. Another reason vitamin C is good for your skin is that it regenerates vitamin E. In other words, once vitamin E has become spent from fighting free radicals, vitamin C brings it back to life. Taking supplements of both nutrients has been shown to elevate their levels in the skin, where they can fight signs of aging from the inside out. Maritime Pine Bark: Pine bark extract provides a natural source of antioxidant polyphenols. One human study on pine bark showed that it protected the skin from the damaging effects of sun exposure. Another study showed that it helped even skin tone. Pine bark extract has another advantage, too. It regenerates and protects both vitamin C and vitamin E, so the body can use them over and over again.