How about a little coffee in your skin cream? News that Illy entered the skin care market underscores a movement toward unconventional ingredients in personal care. As a result, to hyaluronic acid and retinol, add Zylorma and snail mucin. Savvy consumers are reading skin care product labels and, thanks to social media and websites, learning more about product performance and paying closer attention to their skin.

According to Dermatologist Dr. Hope Mitchell, since the global covid pandemic, consumers have sought products and skin care routines that will provide them with comfort, simplicity and adequate sun protection.

“They are definitely understanding the importance of ‘protecting what you are correcting’ or just protecting the skin from future damage,” said Mitchell.

Since the start of covid, Mitchell reports numerous new shifts in consumer behavior regarding skin care, including an increase in the use of skin care products, the creation of at-home spa and salon experiences, and the search for protective skin care formulations.

“Consumers now have more time on their hands to investigate various topics on the internet, which has resulted in an increased awareness of the products’ ingredients and role in skin care,” she observed.

Identifying Issues

More knowledge, yes, but when it comes to skin care woes, consumers’ complaints are ageless. Dryness (44%) and anti-aging (37%) are the top skin care concerns, according to Provoke Insights, a New York research company. Other areas of concern cited by survey participants include fine lines/wrinkles (31%), acne (27%), dark spots (19%), pores (18%) and dullness (7%), according to Provoke Insight’s recent Beauty & Skincare Trends report.

Mitchell’s patients’ biggest concerns are signs of aging. She reports an uptick in appointments to discuss signs of aging which include: loss of elasticity or volume, fine lines, sagging, dryness, redness, rough texture and discoloration or uneven skin tone.

“The ‘Zoom Effect’ has made many pay closer attention to their face and additionally their neck, decolletage and backs of hands,” Mitchell explained. “Prior to covid, patients were more likely to do fewer procedures in tandem. Now, many are combining regimens that consist of peels, injectables and/or laser treatments on top of using skin care regimens that cover hydration, exfoliation, collagen stimulation and antioxidant protection along with sun protection.”

Patients of all ages care about their skin. But their concerns diverge based on their age, according to Mitchell. Patients in their 20s and 30s have an interest in anti-aging regimens. This group is all about prevention and using “appropriate skin care” and procedures that may reduce the appearance of fine lines and discoloration or uneven skin tone, she explained. Patients in their 40s are also concerned with loss of firmness and volume of the skin, resting or etched lines on the forehead and around the eyes and melasma.

“The most successful patients are the ones who combine in-office treatments with their skin care routine,” said Mitchell.

In their 50s, concerns include further loss of elasticity and volume, more fragile skin and wrinkles in addition to aging of the neck.

“Patients are starting to understand the huge impact dryness and hormonal changes like menopause can have on the skin,” she observed. “As a result of the hormonal shifts, many notice acne and signs of sun damage like excessive pigmentation or uneven skin tone.”

Finally, more patients are presenting who are in their 60s and 70s.

“They understand it is never too late to begin an anti-aging program,” she added.

According to Provoke data, as of spring 2022, moisturizers and cleansers are the leading skin care products.  Cleansers are especially popular among younger consumers.

“As one might suspect, Gen Z is especially concerned about acne,” noted Matt Silverman, a researcher and strategist with Provoke.

But whatever the format, ingredients are important when consumers are considering skin care products.

“Over half of consumers (53%) look for specific ingredients when purchasing skin care products,” said Silverman. “This is especially true among Millennials, parents and those looking for sustainably-sourced products.”

What They Seek

What do tretinoin and snail mucus have in common? Google searches have soared for these skin care ingredients, according to Spate (see chart here), a New York research firm. Spate Co-Founder and CEO Yarden Horwitz noted that early on in the pandemic, when consumers were quarantining at home, their time was spent experimenting and educating themselves on different skin care ingredients.

“As a result, they became more comfortable with targeted clinical actives and we’re seeing an increase in searches for ingredients such as tretinoin now,” she told Happi.

But not all that research led to good results. According to Horwitz, despite rigorous self-education, many consumers overdid their active ingredient use which explains growing interest in skin barrier repair and skin-supporting ingredients.

“With snail mucin and ceramides, for example, consumers demonstrate their love for soothing hydration and moisture,” said Horwitz. Though skin care searches are down now, Spate anticipates continued interest in streamlined routines that incorporate a curated range of clinical and skin-supporting ingredients.

“It’s now especially important for brands to pay attention to consumer interests as budgets are tight and they won’t shy away from cutting-edge products that don’t offer visible change,” said Horwitz.

Vitamins are top of mind with consumers when it comes to supplementation. In August, The Benchmarking Company surveyed women about their interest in supplements. When asked “What ingredients in supplements do you look for (or would look for),” vitamins topped the list. Here are their top 10 responses, according to The Benchmarking Company.

Epionce founder Dr. Carl Thornfeldt knows the benefits of ceramides, another key ingredient. They’ve been in the Epionce skin care line, which celebrated its 20th anniversary in October. In fact, when cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides are in a 3:1:1 ratio, they optimize the repair process.

“Applying one ingredient never worked, we saw some benefit, but you need all three to affect barrier repair,” recalled Thornfeldt. “You need all three ingredients in that 3:1:1 ratio to get barrier repair. We pioneered it!”

All three ingredients can be found in Epionce Renewal Facial Cream, which debuted in 2002. According to Thornfeldt, his formula matched results of gold standard, prescription formulas.

In a call with media, dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman noted that the skin barrier provides amazing protection to the body.

“We can die of sepsis within minutes; the barrier keeps us well from birth,” she noted. “The question becomes: how do we support the skin so that it functions properly? There are so many actives that affect the barrier. We want to fortify the barrier, not disrupt it.”

Epionce won’t disrupt the barrier, but Thornfeldt is committed to disrupting the category. In 2023, Epionce will launch a multifunctional sun care product and more.

“Next year, and beyond, we will continue to develop barrier-first, science-driven products.”

Thornfeldt is studying an array of promising botanicals and herbs. He said there are 250,000 botanicals, yet only 50,000 have been thoroughly investigated. But whatever natural material he picks, ingredients will be derived from his new extraction methods.

“The quality of the extraction method is critical,” he explained. “Most extraction methods destroy a high percentage of the active ingredients. That’s why we do our own manufacturing.”

Peptides via Procter

Procter & Gamble combined the best of two ingredients with its new Olay Regenerist Hyaluronic + Peptide 24. P&G maintains the new formula provides 24 hours of hydration and instantly radiant skin. According to Olay research, hydration is the No. 1 skin care priority among consumers, yet 25% of women say they cannot find a product that provides long-lasting hydration in a lightweight gel. This line contains the highest levels of hyaluronic acid compared to Olay Regenerist’s full roster of products. HA is combined with vitamin B3 (niacinamide) and peptides in the range, which includes gel moisturizer, eye gel, hydrating serum, hydrating moisturizer with sunscreen and a facial cleanser.

After two weeks of using the gel moisturizer, 92% of women reported long-lasting hydration, addressing a key skin concern that spans generations and skin types and tone, noted the brand.

The range traps moisture two times longer than the $400 cream, according to Olay.

There are plenty of new formulas from which to choose. For example, Karyn Grossman, MD and medicinal chemist and CBD expert Oludare Odumosu, PhD, MPH teamed up to create Raf Five After Hours moisturizing lotion. This hydrating moisturizer also promises to combat acne. The dual action is made possible thanks to a formula that contains hyaluronic acid, thiotaine and a patent-pending Zylorma Complex that combines soothing CBD and botanicals that combat bacteria, unclog pores and balance out sebum production to help eliminate and prevent breakouts, according to the company.

With so many new product launches, it’s clear that actives are on everyone’s lips…literally! New One Lip Wonder from Fleur & Bee is a botanical-based balm packed with peptides, plant stem cells and coconut oil to visibly hydrate, smooth and plump lips. In a consumer study, 90% of participants said their lip texture is smoother after using One Lip Wonder for two weeks. The clean, cruelty-free and 100% vegan formula retails for $24, according to the brand.

According to company executives, the formula includes 22 active ingredients. Formulators left out the typical lip balm ingredients, petroleum and beeswax, and elevated the product with organic coconut oil to hydrate, organic castor seed oil to nourish and smooth, and candelilla wax to moisturize and soothe. One Lip Wonder includes the usual suspects, glycerin and vitamin E. Both are known to hydrate and soothe the skin.

To take One Lip Wonder to the next level, it is formulated with anti-aging ingredients such as peptides to plump skin and antioxidant-rich plant stem cells to protect the skin.

“We chose many of these ingredients based on their effectiveness in many of our other anti-aging skin care products,” said Fleur & Bee Customer Support Manager and Esthetician Jasmine Rose.

In fact, the only ingredient in One Lip Wonder that is new to its repertoire is candelilla wax. It was selected as the most suitable alternative to non-vegan beeswax and unsustainable petroleum products that are usually incorporated into lip treatment products.

“Candelilla wax is more easily absorbed into the skin and applies better than beeswax, and it does not leave a “film” on your lips as some lip products will,” added Rose.

There are plenty of other launches, too. Cashmere Moon’s Moisturizing Trio Box ($75) includes Whipped Body Cream, Vitamin C Whipped Hand Lotion, & Lavender Rose Glow Oil. Together they are said to provide head-to-toe hydration, soften skin and promote “healthy radiant skin.”

LouLoudi Microneedle Eye Patches are said to contain more than 400 needles with active compounds. All those tiny pricks promise to reduce puffiness, fine lines and wrinkles, as they repair, replenish and plump skin, according to LouLoudi. Patches start at $7.

Vitamin C is the not-so-secret ingredient in Trixsent’s Forever Young Collection. Formulas include Vitamin C Serum, said to deliver deep moisture to fight the signs of aging; Vitamin C Eye Cream, said to reduce the appearance of dark circles and puffiness; Vitamin C Cleanser, which washes away oils while gently soothing skin; and Vitamin C Cream, which promises to firm, brighten, even and moisturize skin.

A Coffee Break

Renowned coffee producer Illycaffé has entered the skin care space. New Amarey is based on regenerated Arabica coffee extract, coffee flowers and coffee powder. The line includes cleanser, serum and face cream.

According to the company, 2.25 billion cups of coffee are downed every day. Yet, just 10% of the coffee cherries are used to make the world’s most popular pick-me-up. Illy hopes to change all that with Amarey. The name is derived from African-Yoruban and means “possessing great strength.”

Amarey maintains that coffee’s antioxidant properties help prevent cellular skin damage, reduce inflammation and puffiness, and help counteract signs of photoaging, including wrinkles and discoloration. Coffee and cosmetics have met before. Formulators know that caffeine constricts blood vessels, which may make skin appear brighter and tighter, according to some experts.

The Amarey formulas include more than coffee, of course. For example, the Antioxidant Lift Serum contains niacinamide and the Hydrating Face Cream contains enriched vitamin E. Prices range from about $24 for the cleanser to $52 for the serum.

Biologique Recherche’s Collagene Originel is based on Type-0 Collagen, an active ingredient derived from marine biotechnology that has not evolved in more that 600 million years—and that’s a good thing, insist company executives.

“It is the historical strain of all collagen types and is considered ‘the mother of all collagens,’” said Philipe Allouche, head of creation, Biologique Recherche.

“Our Collagene Originel serum is a revolutionary anti-aging treatment that acts on the four main types of collagen (I, III, IV, VII) to re-densify the skin in three dimensions,” he told Happi. “It stimulates the collagen naturally present in skin at the gene and protein levels to reduce wrinkle length and revitalize the dermal-epidermal junction, which is the complex structure that anchors the epidermis layer to the dermis layer and keeps skin plump and youthful.”

After four applications on ex-vivo human skin explants over a seven-day period, collagen I increased 13% and collagen III increased 34%. In the DEJ structure, the company reported a 45% increase in collagen IV and a 62% increase in collagen VII. In an X-Polar analysis, Biologique Recherche reported a 28% increase in the integrity of the collagen fibers.

“We measured a 22% increase in the dermal-epidermal junction index, which means the length of the DEJ increased and its surface became more wavelike indicating the DEJ’s mechanical resistance was increasing, resulting in more firmness, less sagging, less wrinkles, and the ability to heal and regenerate tissue faster,” recalled Allouche. “We conducted in-vivo tests on 20 volunteers ages 51 to 68, who used Collagene Originel twice a day for 56 days. We measured a 21% reduction in wrinkle length.”

Dermaesthetics Beverly Hills launched two novel formulas last month. Foxfire Serum ($95/1oz) is said to work with the body’s natural production of adenosine to both protect and heal from deep within the skin. When used daily, the serum is said the help users achieve a protective barrier against pollution, support healing of the epidermal layers and provide a “glow up” as the adenosine works with the skin’s natural process.

“There’s no actual Fox Fire inside, but what gives the product the bioluminescent green color in our Foxfire serum comes from the Matcha Green Tea Extract, along with a combined set of ingredients,” explained Dermaesthetics Director Lincoln Lee. “The ingredients stimulate ATP production and trigger increased cell rejuvenation as well.”

DBH’s Copper Peptide Serum ($119/1oz) contains 500mg of GHK-CU, a human copper-binding peptide and proprietary blend of plant stem cells, vitamins, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, and skin-firming amino acids to collectively tighten, thicken, repair, recover and reverse the signs of biological skin aging. When used morning and night for two weeks, the formula reduced fine lines, depth of wrinkles, and improved structure of aged skin; reduced photodamage, mottled hyperpigmentation, skin spots and lesions; reduced keloids, improved barrier function, reduced inflammation and free radical damage, stimulated collagen production, and improved skin firmness, elasticity and clarity.

What’s Up Doc?

The pandemic pushed online shopping five years into the future. In-person shopping is making a comeback, but nobody wants to spend time in a doctor’s office—especially during cold and flu season. Since its debut in May, 2019, Musely has been offering specialized treatments to all types of skin and hair concerns, including dark spots, melasma, rosacea, anti-aging and even hair loss. The Musely team includes Chief Medical Officer Marie Jhin, MD and Skincare Advisor Kimber Maderazzo, former EVP/GM at The Proactiv Company.

To join the Musely community, users complete a 3-minute online doctor visit by uploading three pictures and complete a medical questionnaire for a dermatologist to review and provide the most appropriate and effective treatment plan.

Products are medically customized and tailored to the customer’s needs, just days before they receive them in the mail.

Consumers must like the results as revenue growth jumped 50 times and there’s been a 400% increase in new patient revenue growth in the first half of 2022. At press time, Musely executives said the company had more than 400,000 customers.

Founder and CEO Jack Jia told Happi that Musely treatments are formulated with ingredients that are backed by clinical research, ensuring that they are safe and effective for treating specific medical conditions. Jia said OTC products often sit on shelves for months on end, making them less potent and quick to expire.

“Even the factory-made medications typically prescribed by a doctor and picked up at the pharmacy were likely packaged nine or more months ago, and therefore are largely oxidized and less effective by the time they arrive,” he said. “Instead, we freshly compound our medications, meaning the ingredients are combined to create a custom medication tailored to our patients’ needs, just days before they receive it in the mail.”

Musely’s most in-demand formula is The Spot Cream which treats extremely stubborn hyperpigmentation such as melasma, which affects approximately five million people in the US alone.

“In many cases, melasma sufferers mistreated their hyperpigmentation due to false information and myths they have seen online,” said Jia. “Even many of our patients have been told by their dermatologists that there is nothing that can be done for their melasma. The Spot Cream is expertly-formulated with high-quality, prescription-strength ingredients such as hydroquinone, azelaic acid, tranexamic acid and tretinoin to tackle hard-to-treat dark spots.”

According to Jia, Musely relies on unique combinations of science-backed ingredients specially formulated to treat dark spots, hair loss, aging and rosacea.

“Some of our go-to ingredients include hydroquinone, tretinoin, minoxidil, azelaic acid, metronidazole, tranexamic acid and ivermectin—to name just a few,” he added.

Mitchell recommends a variety of actives for her patients. She said BHA, salicylic acid, AHA, PHA, retinol, niacinamide, antioxidants and hyaluronic acid are considered to be the most effective ingredients for treating and preventing many dermatologic concerns.

Clearly, there’s plenty of investment in skin care actives research to date, but there is also plenty more to come.

“There is always room at the very top of people’s wish lists for more ingredients that can safely and effectively make a noticeable difference in their skin concerns,” said Mitchell. “Despite the fact that retinol, vitamin C and glycolic acid consistently show effectiveness.”

And all three are consistently incorporated into skin care formulas!  

New Skin Care Actives

Below is a list of new ingredients introduced by industry suppliers in the past 12 months. To learn more about the products listed here, contact the supplier directly using the contact information provided.


Jojoba Desert
+972-8-6473296
[email protected]
www.jojobadesert.com              
JD Phyto-Or 1%
INCI: Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) seed oil; Blakeslea trispora mycelium extract/C30-45 olefin
Applications: Skin brightening, age well skincare, after sun care, hair care, color cosmetics
Use levels: 1.5-2%
Attributes: Protects and maintains the natural hydro lipid skin barrier. Evens skin tone and complexion. Reduces wrinkles and enhances elasticity. Provides a sophisticated resistance against extrinsic aging factors. Protects the skin from ROS (reactive oxygen species) originated from pollution and UV radiation damages.

JD Lusteris
INCI: Jojoba esters, jojoba alcohol, propanediol, tocopherol
Applications: Skin care, face care, acne products, hair care, sun care, color cosmetics
Use levels: 3-50%
Attributes: Instant and long-term moisturization effect. Maintains the natural hydro-lipid skin barrier. Reduces the secretion of sebum. Acne-prone skin improvement. Presents a soothing effect. Significant and durable scalp moisturization. Hair heat protection. Hair conditioning effect.


Laboratory Skin Care
650-373-0450
www.lscbioactives.com
Hydroxysomes Retinaldehyde
INCI: Hydroxyapatite, retinaldehyde
Applications: skin care
Attributes: Delivers retinal and calcium to the skin to stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis. By delivering retinal and calcium simulataneously, Hydroxysomes Retinal provides integrated anti-aging properties for younger-looking skin. Highly stable, non-irritating, sustained release.


Mibelle Biochemistry
 +41 62 836 17 31
Email: [email protected]
mibellebiochemistry.com/

NovoRetin
INCI: Pistacia lentiscus gum / pistacia lentiscus (mastic) Gum (and) lecithin (and) pentylene glycol (and) glyceryl caprylate / caprate (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) aqua / water
Applications: Advanced age-defying formulas, Immediate lifting products, treatments for acne-prone skin, pore minimizing formulas
Use levels: 2-3%
Attributes: NovoRetin is a plant-based retinol alternative demonstrating exceptional benefits for impure skin and strong anti-aging effects. By inhibiting CYP26 enzymes that degrade retinoic acid, NovoRetin can increase the amount of naturally occurring retinoic acid, the active form of retinol, in the skin.

CALMandrin
INCI: Citrus reticulata extract / citrus reticulata (tangerine) extract (and) glycerin (and) pentylene glycol (and) aqua / water
Applications: Anti-aging treatments, calming gel masks, anti-inflammaging skin care, collagen boosting serums
Use levels: 1-3%
Attributes: CALMandrin is a sustainable solution for combatting inflammaging by notably improving the signs of aging, as well as soothing reddened and inflamed skin. In addition to its calming effect on irritated skin, it also markedly increases the firmness and density of the skin. CALMandrin is sustainably obtained by upcycling the peel paste from unique organic Chios mandarins. It is Cosmos approved and NaTrue approved.

SLVR’Coffee
INCI: Coffea arabica seed extract (and) Butyrospermum parkii butter (and) tocopherol
Applications: Protective and hydrating body care formula, de-stressing body balm, replenishing face cream, hand and foot care treatments, pampering bath and shower products
Use levels: 1-3%
Benefits/attributes (limited to 100 words per ingredient): SLVR'Coffee™ is based on upcycled coffee silverskin to moisturize and comfort dry skin. The silverskin is a thin protective layer of the coffee cherry that envelops the delicate seed and falls off the bean during the roasting process. SLVR'Coffee™ protects the epidermis from internal and external stressors as well as transepidermal water loss, resulting in improved skin hydration. Therefore, SLVR'Coffee™ enhances the overall comfort level of delicate skin.

EpiCalsome
INCI: Hydrogenated lecithin (and) calcium chloride (and) glycerin (and) pentylene clycol (and) aqua/water
Applications: Intensive repair creams for extra dry skin, Advanced skin-replenishing therapies, Pre- and posttreatments for stressed and compromised skin, Diabetic skin care and dermatoporosis treatments
Use levels: 2-5%
Attributes: EpiCalsome is a novel natural calcium complex that helps to replenish the skin’s calcium gradient. An innovative technology encapsulates calcium ions in a phospholipid-based double cone structure, which makes the large and charged molecules bioavailable. These calcium double cones are packed in a supramolecular spiral structure that can easily be formulated into cosmetic products, enabling a simple and efficient delivery of bioavailable calcium to the skin (patent-pending application). By restoring the calcium gradient, EpiCalsome improves the skin barrier function and reduces trans epidermal water loss, which results in a healthy, vitalized, and protected skin.


Micro Powders, Inc.
914-793-4058
[email protected]
www.micropowders.com

Ecosoft 627S
INCI: Polylactic acid silica
Applications: Pressed and loose powders. Emulsion systems
Use levels: 1-5%
Attributes: Ultrafine polylactic acid powder derived from biofermented corn starch that provides slip with extremely silky silicone-like aesthetics. Spherical particle shape provides additional slip and soft focus performance. Suitable alternative for PMMA.

Naturebead Aqua R10
INCI: Oryza sativa (rice) bran wax tanacetum annuum flower oil
Applications: Scalp scrub, exfoliating sunless tanning/tanning alternatives
Use levels: 1-10%
Attributes: 10 mesh bead derived from upcycled rice bran wax and blue tansy flower oil to give aqua blue coloration without added pigments.  Spherical shape provides gentle exfoliation with visual cue.

NatureBead SeaFoam C10
INCI: Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba) wax Tanacetum annuum flower oil
Applications: Scalp scrub, exfoliating sunless tanning/tanning alternatives
Use levels: 1-10%
Attributes: 10 mesh bead derived from upcycled rice bran wax and blue tansy flower oil to give aqua blue coloration without added pigments.  Spherical shape provides gentle exfoliation with visual cue.

Microcare 350S
INCI: Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax
Applications: Loose and pressed powders and emulsion systems; color cosmetics, sun and skin care products
Use levels: 1-5%
Attributes: Natural spherical ultrafine powder based on organic carnauba wax

Naturesoft 860S
INCI: Oryza sativa (rice) bran wax
Applications: Color cosmetic formulations including powders and emulsions. Sun care, skin care and treatments, and hair care.
Use levels: 1-5%
Attributes: Upcycled rice bran wax powder that has natural oil-binding properties to reduce heavy and oily aesthetics.  Added benefit is the ability to be an effective SPF booster in both organic and inorganic sunscreen containing formulations.  Spherical shape provides added soft focus effect and anti-glazing.


Seiwa Kasei Co. Ltd.
+81-72-987-2626
[email protected]
seiwakasei.jp/en/

Black Pearl Extract
INCI: Mother of Pearl extract, pentylene glycol
Applications: Skin toner, skin serum, skin cream
Use levels: 0.1-2.5%
Attributes: Black Pearl Extract is a precious upcycling ingredient which is extracted from the black mother of pearl grown in the sea of Tahiti. An attractive appearance and refined beauty from the black pearl makes high value-added or high-end price cosmetics to help to develop associating with luxury and noble impression. It has excellent skin care efficacy such as anti-aging and skin brightening effects and leads to beautiful and shiny skin. Black Pearl Extract can be appealed both “Luxury” and “Sustainable.”

Sesaqua
INCI: Hydrolyzed sesame protein, butylene glycol, water
Applications: Skin toner, skin serum, skin cream
Use levels: 0.1-10%
Attributes: The origin of product name, Sesaqua, is the fusion of “sesame” and “aqua.”. Sesaqua is a water soluble active ingredient for skin care which is made from sesame. It has excellent anti-aging and skin-brightening effects. In addition, this is an upcycling ingredient using pomace from manufacturing process of sesame oil. 100% natural and earth friendly features make the material suitable for a variety of applications. Sesaqua is a 100% plant-derived raw material approved by Cosmos and NaTrue Standard.


Sytheon
973-988-1075
[email protected]
www.sytheonltd.com

Asyntra D-Stress
INCI: Isosorbide dicaprylate (and) bakuchiol (and) ethyl linoleate
Applications: Antiaging, Skin Calming, Barrier Repair, Skin hydration
Use levels: 2 to 4%
Attributes: 10 mesh bead derived from upcycled rice bran wax and blue tansy flower oil to give aqua blue coloration without added pigments.  Spherical shape provides gentle exfoliation with visual cue.