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By: Daniela Ferreira
January 3, 2020
Brazil is in the No. 2 fragrance market in the world, trailing only the US and ahead of Germany, France and the UK. Together, sales in the Big 5 neared $51 billion in 2018, with the US holding a 16.5% share and Brazil 13.4%, according to Euromonitor International. Yet, the Brazilian fragrance market declined 4.2% from 2013 to 2018 as the global fragrance market fell 1.2%. In contrast, sales in the US and China (No. 11), surged 13.5% and 48.5%, respectively. Looking ahead, experts predict that through 2023, fragrance sales will rise 14% globally, in particular, 33.7% in Brazil and 53% in China. On the world stage, the best seller brand is Arabian Oud (Arabian Oud Co) followed by Jo Malone London (Estée Lauder Cos Inc.), Chanel Nº 5 (Chanel SA), Malbec (Grupo Boticário) and Chanel Coco Mademoiselle (Chanel SA). Domestic brands are dominant in Brazil, with Malbec (Grupo Boticário) No. 1, followed by Natura Ekos (Natura & Co); Hinode (Larru´s Industria e Comércio de Cosméticos Ltda), Floratta (Grupo Boticário) and Natura Humor (Natura & Co), according to Euromonitor International. Yet, in premium fragrances, Brazil represents only 1.4% of the global market, which reached $30.4 billion in 2018, according to Euromonitor—although the forecast is to rise 47% through 2023. Indeed, Segmenta, a Latin America marketing intelligence and research company, reports this selective fragrance market grew approximately 15% in value in South America (Argentina, Brazil, Chile and Peru) in 2018, heavily influenced by Brazil which represents nearly half of the region’s value sales. Latin America’s best-selling feminine lines (including flankers) in Latin America are: La vie est belle (Lancôme), 212 (Carolina Herrera), Good Girl (Carolina Herrera), J’adore (Dior) and Miss Dior (Christian Dior. The top five masculine lines are: 212 men (Carolina Herrera), One Million (Paco Rabanne), Invictus (Paco Rabanne), Azzaro Homme (Azzaro) and Sauvage (Christian Dior). Market Drivers A driver of feminine fragrances were new launches such as flanker Good Girl Légere (Carolina Herrera), L’Interdit (Givenchy) and Si Passione (Giorgio Armani). The feminine prestigious fragrance market is 1.5 times larger than the masculine in both units and values, but it grew slightly faster than feminine (15% vs. 14.5%, respectively), mainly due to two major trends that continue to support market development in the region: the new volume options and the opening of new points of sale. The brands bet on new size options for attracting and/or retaining new consumers. Market leader Puig pioneered large volume strategies (>126ml), especially for the male market. Iconic brands like Carolina Herrera and Paco Rabanne offer a 200ml version and always rank among the top-selling SKUs—six out of 10 masculine fragrances sold were over 126ml. For female fragrances, although available in larger volumes, they still have a small representation in the whole category (just 3% vs 16% for men). The online channel was also one of the drivers for the region’s growth—especially in Brazil, while in other countries (Argentina, Brazil, Chile e Peru) e-commerce did not exceed 7% of total sales; in Brazil it represented 16% of the market (Segmenta/2019). What’s Happening? According to Lucia Lisboa, VP-fine fragrance Latin America, Givaudan, premiumization is moving markets, as there were launches of more niche EDPs and experimental products in 2019. Splashes have also made a comeback. Volumetric reduction and miniatures, which democratized use and increased experimentation provided a lift. At the same time, there is growing demand for natural ingredients, vegan and plant-based storytelling. Furthermore, it has been seen a lot of investment in special editions and gift sets as companies have created exclusive departments in these areas. Lisboa claims that innovation is at the heart of domestic perfumery gains, including elaborate storytelling, new ingredients and artificial intelligence. Pipelines are full with launches that are said to boost mood. Regarding olfactory trends and opportunities, there is a growth of the chypre family, with notes that are more elaborate, modern, easier to use. The woody family is protagonist for both male and female perfumery. Fougere, which was predominantly male, but already widely used by women, now has more feminine nuances. Lisboa predicts that naturalness as well as social and environmental impact will be further explored. The artisan side, through sustainable and rare ingredients will be more evident. Vollmens, a Brazilian fragrance house for small and medium-sized regional companies, predicts an increasing demand for safer and more effective products as natural phthalate-free fragrances and potential allergens, as well as the search for perfumes with free-from animal-derived products and also that do not harm the environment. Furthermore, the personalization concept also holds strong as people today want to feel “unique” and perfume can play an important role in fulfilling this desire. According to Alessandra Tucci, founding director of perfumery school Paralela Escola Olfativa, the major perfume brands in Brazil are working on two fronts: social and environmental engagement. Natura uses recycled glass in perfume bottles and its Brazilian biodiversity programs impact 20 ingredients and 60,000 people. Furthermore, its positioning as Casa de Perfumaria do Brasil (Brazil’s Perfumery House) is a counterpoint to national preference for imported fragrances. O Boticario traces multiple paths; its campaigns talk about the most sensitive and current issues: gender, new family models, the role of men and women. O Boticario is putting more emphasis on its sustainability efforts. Tucci claims that with so much innovation, it is difficult to predict olfactory trends; each brand proposal and business model has its own logic. One thing’s for sure, there will be less emphasis on the gourmands and fruity notes that dominated the past decade. Some other highlights include:
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